AR15.Com Archives
 Need some rider lawnmower help
Chromekilla  [Team Member]
5/9/2012 5:59:20 PM
Hey guys,

My buddy got a Sears Craftsman made in the USA rider for free yesterday. It looks to be of good quality so yesterday we changed the oil, aired up the tires, and drained the old gas. Well it started up and runs real nice. We came upon an issue with the blade engagement. It has what looks to be a toggle switch that one pulls up over a hump and then pushes the lever upwards and the blades are supposed to engage. Well we noted that yesterday we had the blades working and then mowed with it a bit. Shut it down and tried the blades again later they didn't work. So it appears to have some type of electro clutch on the motor that locks up to turn the blade pulleys.

We are gonna replace the toggle first thing and if that doesn't work try the clutch. Any suggestions?

fxntime  [Team Member]
5/9/2012 6:22:03 PM
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Hey guys,

My buddy got a Sears Craftsman made in the USA rider for free yesterday. It looks to be of good quality so yesterday we changed the oil, aired up the tires, and drained the old gas. Well it started up and runs real nice. We came upon an issue with the blade engagement. It has what looks to be a toggle switch that one pulls up over a hump and then pushes the lever upwards and the blades are supposed to engage. Well we noted that yesterday we had the blades working and then mowed with it a bit. Shut it down and tried the blades again later they didn't work. So it appears to have some type of electro clutch on the motor that locks up to turn the blade pulleys.

We are gonna replace the toggle first thing and if that doesn't work try the clutch. Any suggestions?



Ohm out the parts before you start buying then willy nilly. Power off, and work down the line at each safety, switch, and finish at the clutch.
Chromekilla  [Team Member]
5/9/2012 7:24:09 PM
Originally Posted By fxntime:
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Hey guys,

My buddy got a Sears Craftsman made in the USA rider for free yesterday. It looks to be of good quality so yesterday we changed the oil, aired up the tires, and drained the old gas. Well it started up and runs real nice. We came upon an issue with the blade engagement. It has what looks to be a toggle switch that one pulls up over a hump and then pushes the lever upwards and the blades are supposed to engage. Well we noted that yesterday we had the blades working and then mowed with it a bit. Shut it down and tried the blades again later they didn't work. So it appears to have some type of electro clutch on the motor that locks up to turn the blade pulleys.

We are gonna replace the toggle first thing and if that doesn't work try the clutch. Any suggestions?



Ohm out the parts before you start buying then willy nilly. Power off, and work down the line at each safety, switch, and finish at the clutch.


I've got a digital multimeter, but am not very familiar with the process of ohming. I've done it on a block heater on my diesel, but how would I do it on the switches etc? Just unplug them and then test each prong and hole side?
Chromekilla  [Team Member]
5/9/2012 7:25:51 PM


Here is a pic of what our rider looks like. It is 16 hp though. I can't seem to find a MN as the stickers are all faded.

fxntime  [Team Member]
5/9/2012 8:05:55 PM
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Originally Posted By fxntime:
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
Hey guys,

My buddy got a Sears Craftsman made in the USA rider for free yesterday. It looks to be of good quality so yesterday we changed the oil, aired up the tires, and drained the old gas. Well it started up and runs real nice. We came upon an issue with the blade engagement. It has what looks to be a toggle switch that one pulls up over a hump and then pushes the lever upwards and the blades are supposed to engage. Well we noted that yesterday we had the blades working and then mowed with it a bit. Shut it down and tried the blades again later they didn't work. So it appears to have some type of electro clutch on the motor that locks up to turn the blade pulleys.

We are gonna replace the toggle first thing and if that doesn't work try the clutch. Any suggestions?



Ohm out the parts before you start buying then willy nilly. Power off, and work down the line at each safety, switch, and finish at the clutch.


I've got a digital multimeter, but am not very familiar with the process of ohming. I've done it on a block heater on my diesel, but how would I do it on the switches etc? Just unplug them and then test each prong and hole side?


Unhook leads, test it in off position [OL] and in the on position [0000]. If you have good continuity then it should read 0 or very close to it. The clutch should give you a read, don't know what it would be but it'll likely be a winding/coil so OL is bad, a read means it likely is OK.