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How to build shed ramp?
4/6/2012 9:14:51 AM
Last fall I got some advice on here about how to build my shed. I finished it in October, but I don't have a ramp on it yet. The shed is built up off the ground a bit and the joists span all the way from one side to the other. 2x10's, spaced 12" apart, spanning 12 feet. The ramp needs to be just under 8 feet wide and I'm guessing 6-7 feet in lenght. The way I want to build it is to put a ledger board on the shed, attach joist hangers, put 2x8's in for stringers and land them on a concrete pad with a brace attached to the pad. Then put 5/4 down for a decking surface.
Here are my 2 big questions:
Will the weight of the ramp sag the 2x10 it's connected to?
I figure if I put a ledger on with lag bolts, I'm basically doubling the thickness and making a beam, should be pretty stiff, but makes me nervous. I'm considering putting a concrete pier underneath with a 4x4 post to support the 2x10 and ledger. Total overkill?
How closely should I space the stringers? 16"?
Here are my 2 big questions:
Will the weight of the ramp sag the 2x10 it's connected to?
I figure if I put a ledger on with lag bolts, I'm basically doubling the thickness and making a beam, should be pretty stiff, but makes me nervous. I'm considering putting a concrete pier underneath with a 4x4 post to support the 2x10 and ledger. Total overkill?
How closely should I space the stringers? 16"?
4/6/2012 6:06:53 PM
Simplify, my friend.
Find your desired length and slope, and cut your stringers accordingly. Attach them to the "ledger" and THEN lag that into your floor joist. Being your cutting an angle out of the stringers, it will be a pain to seat them properly into a joist hanger, so you can lag them from the back of the ledger BEFORE you attach it to your shed. Then sheath it with your desired material. Did you double up your perimeter boards on the floor joists? (just out of curiosity) If your really that worried about it you can just cripple stud a piece of scrap 4x4 under the floor joist to take some of the weight. It will be hidden by the ramp anyways.
16" O.C is probably fine, I like to run at 12", just because I know being a ramp it is going to take traffic/lawnmowers etc.
8' wide is a big ramp
I wanna see some pics when your done.
Take what you can from this for now, I will pull off one of the boards tomorrow and take some pics so you can see what Im talking about.
Find your desired length and slope, and cut your stringers accordingly. Attach them to the "ledger" and THEN lag that into your floor joist. Being your cutting an angle out of the stringers, it will be a pain to seat them properly into a joist hanger, so you can lag them from the back of the ledger BEFORE you attach it to your shed. Then sheath it with your desired material. Did you double up your perimeter boards on the floor joists? (just out of curiosity) If your really that worried about it you can just cripple stud a piece of scrap 4x4 under the floor joist to take some of the weight. It will be hidden by the ramp anyways.
16" O.C is probably fine, I like to run at 12", just because I know being a ramp it is going to take traffic/lawnmowers etc.
8' wide is a big ramp
I wanna see some pics when your done.
Take what you can from this for now, I will pull off one of the boards tomorrow and take some pics so you can see what Im talking about.
4/7/2012 11:50:57 PM
Why not build it with some stone and dirt then seed it with grass? That is how I did mine.
4/8/2012 5:02:55 PM
Its best to keep the structure not in contact with dirt and grass etc. In addition, upkeep can be near constant if you live in a "wet" area.
When you build a ramp with wood, it in itself will be in contact with the ground, instead of the shed floor joists, sheathing, paint, doors etc. So in ten years you will have to replace your ramp (no big deal), instead of a section of your shed.
That said, it is an option, and when done well can look quite nice.
OP, I didn't realize on Friday that today is Easter.
So the weekend has been, well, chaotic (but oddly quite nice). I will do my best to get pics up tomorrow after work.
When you build a ramp with wood, it in itself will be in contact with the ground, instead of the shed floor joists, sheathing, paint, doors etc. So in ten years you will have to replace your ramp (no big deal), instead of a section of your shed.
That said, it is an option, and when done well can look quite nice.
OP, I didn't realize on Friday that today is Easter.
So the weekend has been, well, chaotic (but oddly quite nice). I will do my best to get pics up tomorrow after work.4/8/2012 5:57:40 PM
When faced with the prospect of building a ramp to my new shed last spring, I decided to go with these instead...
Carry-On Trailer 1' x 6.6' 400 Lb. Capacity Arched Folding Steel Loading Ramp
Lowes: Folding Ramps
It takes me 20 seconds to put two of them down or take them up because the fold in the middle and store against the wall just inside the door. They work perfectly for my riding lawn mower.
I wanted a fulltime ramp. After using these for a year and a half, I am so glad that I did not make one. I couldn't be happier.
They run about $65 a piece.
Carry-On Trailer 1' x 6.6' 400 Lb. Capacity Arched Folding Steel Loading Ramp
Lowes: Folding Ramps
It takes me 20 seconds to put two of them down or take them up because the fold in the middle and store against the wall just inside the door. They work perfectly for my riding lawn mower.
I wanted a fulltime ramp. After using these for a year and a half, I am so glad that I did not make one. I couldn't be happier.
They run about $65 a piece.
4/8/2012 5:58:41 PM
Sorry... double tap.
4/8/2012 9:10:47 PM
I just used 2x4s for my ramp, laid on top of bricks. Supports 750 lb mower + 200 lb rider
