Archived Posts » 59,646,491
FSB Pins Impossibly Stubborn
6/6/2012 9:08:11 PM
I spent all day dremeling away at my FSB in an attempt to remove the FSB. I can see that a hydraulic press is necessary, but I am unable to understand how armories believe this to be an acceptable practice. At any rate, I drilled down the middle of one of the pins, and it still remains stubborn. I put the upper assembly in the freezer for overnight cooling. Any thoughts from others on the ridiculous practice of armories installing a FSB in a nearly permanent fashion?
6/6/2012 9:16:16 PM
Make sure you are pressing them the right way. Mine were tapered on one end and could only go in/out one way.
6/6/2012 9:18:19 PM
They are taper pins. You gotta hit them real hard from the small side. And don't mushroom the pin heads.
6/7/2012 1:41:18 AM
Heat them up a little bit with a blow dryer or something with moderate heat and give them a hard whack with a hammer weighing at least two pounds. Try giving the bottom of the FSB some light taps with the hammer too in case the pins are bound up.
If all else fails grind a little of the pins off so they're flat with the FSB and use a pointed punch to shock them loose. They take more force to knock loose than you'd imagine. After they'll slide out like butter.
If all else fails grind a little of the pins off so they're flat with the FSB and use a pointed punch to shock them loose. They take more force to knock loose than you'd imagine. After they'll slide out like butter.
6/7/2012 2:46:49 AM
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
6/7/2012 4:24:57 AM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
I can see that a hydraulic press is necessary, but I am unable to understand how armories believe this to be an acceptable practice.
I can see that a hydraulic press is necessary, but I am unable to understand how armories believe this to be an acceptable practice.
The FSB is not intended to be a user-serviceable part. When a user chooses to service it, they take a chance that they don't have the right tools or experience to do so, properly.
6/7/2012 6:28:02 AM
I have nothing but Colts which are considered to be the most difficult when removing the FSB. I supported the front with a gun block and I also supported the back as well. Took a punch that was almost bigger than the taper pins and drove the pins left to right. In other words as you would be looking at the upper laying on a table with ejection port face down ; drive pins downwards towards the table. As you will find out when hitting the pins solidly all of the sudden the start moving. Be persistent and they will come out. Some manufacturers are much easier than Colts though.
6/7/2012 10:19:40 AM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
6/7/2012 10:26:51 AM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
6/7/2012 11:44:13 AM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
Of course, that is why I resorted to a dremel.
6/7/2012 1:19:52 PM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Eric is right. Getting them to make the initial movement is the first step. Supporting them and using the proper punch and hammer is your best bet. Along with knowing which way to drive them.
6/7/2012 1:51:06 PM
I had the same problem and someone suggested I lube them on both sides and leave it alone for about an hour, did the trick. Although it still took a lot of force to get them going. Hope this helps.
6/7/2012 2:31:13 PM
Well I managed to remove the pins, amazingly with my precise dremeling which resulted in no marring of the barrel. 
For now on, it will be a clamp on gas block. And for you UTG haters, I will be installing a UTG Pro free float rail tomorrow.
In any event, the stories I have read online regarding the FSB are tremendous. Fortunately I knew the pins were tapered before I really screwed myself. Only thing now is, I am not sure I have a use for the Brownells block.
For now on, it will be a clamp on gas block. And for you UTG haters, I will be installing a UTG Pro free float rail tomorrow.
In any event, the stories I have read online regarding the FSB are tremendous. Fortunately I knew the pins were tapered before I really screwed myself. Only thing now is, I am not sure I have a use for the Brownells block.
6/7/2012 4:18:57 PM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Of course, that is why I resorted to a dremel.
I'm not sure we're understanding each other. I was referring to using one of these blocks to properly support the FSB while whacking away at it with a BFH.Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
Of course, that is why I resorted to a dremel.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK
I'm glad to hear you were finally successful without damaging the barrel.
6/7/2012 4:56:12 PM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Of course, that is why I resorted to a dremel.
I'm not sure we're understanding each other. I was referring to using one of these blocks to properly support the FSB while whacking away at it with a BFH.
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Should have used a bigger hammer & punch before resorting to the Dremel. Gotta properly support the FSB too.
Who told you this misinformation? I already attempted to use an RBH and large punch. These pins had no desire to move, even the one that was cut all the way down the middle.
Was the FSB properly supported, such as on a dedicated FSB block? You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes.
Of course, that is why I resorted to a dremel.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK
I see what you are saying. Yeah, I had a block, but I think I still needed a sludge hammer.
I'm glad to hear you were finally successful without damaging the barrel.
Thanks. It was a pain in the butt, and I was beginning think I might damage something. I am going to find a buddy with a press next time I choose to take on this endeavor.
6/7/2012 5:45:08 PM
Freezer is backwards to what you need to do to remove taper pins. Cold contracts the parts and makes the fit tighter, not looser. Heating the FSB with a propane torch would have been more effective.
Freezer helps with removing tight barrel nuts because of the dissimilar materials - steel nut threaded onto an aluminum receiver and the corresponding different thermal expansion/contraction characteristics.
When removing tight taper pins you need solid support, a heavy hammer, strong punch and one or two solid hits, not a bunch of tapping.
Most manufacturers put them in way too tight, for the vast majority of average customers who have no interest in customization.
Freezer helps with removing tight barrel nuts because of the dissimilar materials - steel nut threaded onto an aluminum receiver and the corresponding different thermal expansion/contraction characteristics.
When removing tight taper pins you need solid support, a heavy hammer, strong punch and one or two solid hits, not a bunch of tapping.
Most manufacturers put them in way too tight, for the vast majority of average customers who have no interest in customization.
6/8/2012 3:48:05 PM
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
6/8/2012 3:53:58 PM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
not this:
6/8/2012 4:25:54 PM
I bought one of the first DSA middy uppers and decided to free float it. They used straight pins and apparently installed them with a hydraulic press. The pins were an absolute bitch to remove, but after ruining a few punches I did get them out.
Armalite makes a .750 clamp on front sight tower if you want to go that way. I've had excellent results with the low profile YHM clamp on gas block too.
Armalite makes a .750 clamp on front sight tower if you want to go that way. I've had excellent results with the low profile YHM clamp on gas block too.
6/8/2012 4:59:37 PM
Here's an idea. If you're going to start disassembling everything, why not start with separate parts instead of buying someone else's assembly job? Then you know how it's put together, and it's likely not put together in such a way that you can't get it apart.
Lots of manufacturers do lots of things which have the effect of preventing disassembly, either for manufacturing convenience or general customer satisfaction (it'll never come apart for the average consumer). Manufacturers who loctite barrel nuts and flash suppressors, and drive in taper pins to impossible pressures, and similiar practices are all too frequently encountered, this is why many like to assemble their own.
What kind of receiver block/interior support were you using for the upper receiver?
This.
Lots of manufacturers do lots of things which have the effect of preventing disassembly, either for manufacturing convenience or general customer satisfaction (it'll never come apart for the average consumer). Manufacturers who loctite barrel nuts and flash suppressors, and drive in taper pins to impossible pressures, and similiar practices are all too frequently encountered, this is why many like to assemble their own.
What kind of receiver block/interior support were you using for the upper receiver?
Originally Posted By chibajoe:
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
This.
6/8/2012 5:52:04 PM
Originally Posted By chibajoe:
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
The block I used is the latter one. That huge one from Brownells would have good, but I cannot help but wonder, with the way the upper receiver twisted, if the threading would have just broken off instead, as that is essentially where the crack formed first. It seems like I would have been screwed either way.
I am now left with a $400 barrel 
6/9/2012 12:21:24 AM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
The block I used is the latter one. That huge one from Brownells would have good, but I cannot help but wonder, with the way the upper receiver twisted, if the threading would have just broken off instead, as that is essentially where the crack formed first. It seems like I would have been screwed either way. I am now left with a $400 barrel
Yup, ya done it wrong. Sorry. The proper tools make the work almost easy. At least uppers aren't much more than ~$100. Count it as another expensive life lesson learned.Originally Posted By chibajoe:
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
The block I used is the latter one. That huge one from Brownells would have good, but I cannot help but wonder, with the way the upper receiver twisted, if the threading would have just broken off instead, as that is essentially where the crack formed first. It seems like I would have been screwed either way.
I am now left with a $400 barrel 6/9/2012 12:47:42 AM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
The block I used is the latter one. That huge one from Brownells would have good, but I cannot help but wonder, with the way the upper receiver twisted, if the threading would have just broken off instead, as that is essentially where the crack formed first. It seems like I would have been screwed either way. I am now left with a $400 barrel
Yup, ya done it wrong. Sorry. The proper tools make the work almost easy. At least uppers aren't much more than ~$100. Count it as another expensive life lesson learned.
Originally Posted By chibajoe:
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Just when I thought things were going well, I try to remove the barrel nut off my upper with a Tapco wrench, and the blasted upper receiver broke. I dished out a decent amount of money to get this Palmetto State Armory upper assembly, and the bloody thing breaks because the bloody barrel nut was way the heck too tight. I am sorry if I seem a bit angry, but this makes no sense. Does PSA really believe what they did makes sense? Well, I cannot be angry with them, truly. I have the tools, I should have known better than to have bought a pre-assembled product. Wow though, breaker bar and everything, mounted to a block, and the thing just twists and breaks.
If anything, I just hope this serves a caution to others in the future. PSA makes great products, but buying a pre-assembled unit from any manufacturer may present difficulties and disadvantages. If you truly desire a custom built AR-15, better keep EVERYTHING custom. Otherwise, PSA makes great products, and it is sad that this unit is not even two months old and it is worthless. Back to the dremel again... * sigh *...
Did you use the proper upper receiver vise block?
You should be using this:
http://www.pbase.com/rottweiler/image/141518554/medium.jpg
not this:
http://www.ar15products.net/cat1691.jpg
The block I used is the latter one. That huge one from Brownells would have good, but I cannot help but wonder, with the way the upper receiver twisted, if the threading would have just broken off instead, as that is essentially where the crack formed first. It seems like I would have been screwed either way.
I am now left with a $400 barrel Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
6/9/2012 1:13:42 AM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
6/9/2012 10:07:58 AM
Originally Posted By everyusernametaken:
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
You will have to forgive my ignorance, as I only recently became familiar with Brownell's specialty tool, but upon looking at it, I do not see how it supports the neck of the upper receiver. As best as I can tell, it seems to firmly hold in place the entirety of the upper receiver. In my case, I would need something that could hold the neck firmly in place, and I doubt a tool can be made that would do just that.
6/9/2012 11:36:07 AM
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
You will have to forgive my ignorance, as I only recently became familiar with Brownell's specialty tool, but upon looking at it, I do not see how it supports the neck of the upper receiver. As best as I can tell, it seems to firmly hold in place the entirety of the upper receiver. In my case, I would need something that could hold the neck firmly in place, and I doubt a tool can be made that would do just that.
Originally Posted By everyusernametaken:
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
You will have to forgive my ignorance, as I only recently became familiar with Brownell's specialty tool, but upon looking at it, I do not see how it supports the neck of the upper receiver. As best as I can tell, it seems to firmly hold in place the entirety of the upper receiver. In my case, I would need something that could hold the neck firmly in place, and I doubt a tool can be made that would do just that.
If the "neck" breaks off of a properly supported (as would be in a set of dedicated upper receiver vise blocks) then there was something very wrong with the receiver be it a metallurgical issue or just plain being damaged. A receiver that is not properly supported while working on it will put stress in weird places.
It's not the end of the world. Buy another stripped flat-top upper receiver for ~$80 and transfer over the forward-assist and door assemblies. Then buy and use the correct upper receiver block and learn how to do it yourself. As a bonus, once you have the proper tools, your BRD-afflicted friends will like you even more.
In the past I have grossly over-torqued a barrel nut, that was properly supported, and after correcting it the rifle lives and functions fine.
6/9/2012 12:14:51 PM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
If the "neck" breaks off of a properly supported (as would be in a set of dedicated upper receiver vise blocks) then there was something very wrong with the receiver be it a metallurgical issue or just plain being damaged. A receiver that is not properly supported while working on it will put stress in weird places.
It's not the end of the world. Buy another stripped flat-top upper receiver for ~$80 and transfer over the forward-assist and door assemblies. Then buy and use the correct upper receiver block and learn how to do it yourself. As a bonus, once you have the proper tools, your BRD-afflicted friends will like you even more.
In the past I have grossly over-torqued a barrel nut, that was properly supported, and after correcting it the rifle lives and functions fine.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
You will have to forgive my ignorance, as I only recently became familiar with Brownell's specialty tool, but upon looking at it, I do not see how it supports the neck of the upper receiver. As best as I can tell, it seems to firmly hold in place the entirety of the upper receiver. In my case, I would need something that could hold the neck firmly in place, and I doubt a tool can be made that would do just that.
Originally Posted By everyusernametaken:
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
Originally Posted By pianobomber:
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
Right, but what if the upper receiver cracked in the same spot using the other block? I would be at a loss of an upper receiver in any case. Oh well.
The correct block properly supports the receiver to prevent exactly this from happening.
You will have to forgive my ignorance, as I only recently became familiar with Brownell's specialty tool, but upon looking at it, I do not see how it supports the neck of the upper receiver. As best as I can tell, it seems to firmly hold in place the entirety of the upper receiver. In my case, I would need something that could hold the neck firmly in place, and I doubt a tool can be made that would do just that.
If the "neck" breaks off of a properly supported (as would be in a set of dedicated upper receiver vise blocks) then there was something very wrong with the receiver be it a metallurgical issue or just plain being damaged. A receiver that is not properly supported while working on it will put stress in weird places.
It's not the end of the world. Buy another stripped flat-top upper receiver for ~$80 and transfer over the forward-assist and door assemblies. Then buy and use the correct upper receiver block and learn how to do it yourself. As a bonus, once you have the proper tools, your BRD-afflicted friends will like you even more.
In the past I have grossly over-torqued a barrel nut, that was properly supported, and after correcting it the rifle lives and functions fine.
Yeah, it certainly is not the end of the world, and who knows how my story would have resulted given the different tools. As best as I can tell, Sota Arms has the best price on upper receivers.
