Soldering Muzzle Break.... question.
Should the coating be removed from the threads of the barrel and break? Or will the solder get under it?
Have it pinned and welded.
I needed the same thing done send it to ADCO. it will be back quick and done right with a blind pin and a weld
Cover you ass get it done right
Thanks guys but im looking for an answer to my question, not an alternative.
Please nobody else tell me to have it pinned/welded. I am soldering it, i already have the supplies from brownells.
No, you do not need to remove the parkerizing from the flash hider and barrel thread. Just make sure you clean off all of the grease/oil that might be in the threads, and use some kind of heat control paste to limit the discoloration. Also, don't be stingy with the solder; get a nice, even bead all around the base of the FH, and clean up any excess with a file after everything cools down.
Thank you, that is the info i was looking for.
Ups dropped off my solder and heat paste yesterday. Im GTG.
Originally Posted By chibajoe:
No, you do not need to remove the parkerizing from the flash hider and barrel thread. Just make sure you clean off all of the grease/oil that might be in the threads, and use some kind of heat control paste to limit the discoloration. Also, don't be stingy with the solder; get a nice, even bead all around the base of the FH, and clean up any excess with a file after everything cools down.
This and break cleaner will work well to clean the threads. They need to be squeeky clean. Make sure your break cleaner is the type that does not leave any residue behind.
Also, you will probably want to use MAPP or acetylene, since propane will have a hard time getting the barrel hot enough to melt the solder. Heat the barrel up first, then the FH; you will get better solder adhesion and 'wicking' that way.
SUCCESS!!! Thanks again guys for the help.
1. Cleaned the threads really good on the barrel and brake.
2. Applied my solder paste from brownells. i was generous, filling the threads, but not gobbing it on.
3. Screwed on the muzzle brake. I had previously timed it using the correct spacers.
4. Applied brownells heat stop to the barrel, up to the gas block. The heat did not get past the block during the process, and only got warm as i was letting the barrel cool after all was finished. apply as much as possible without it dripping off.
5. apply heat. I used MAPP in a handheld bottle/torch. side to side until the muzzle break was hot and i was convinced the barrel underneath was also red hot.
6. let cool.
Now take a wrench and try to spin off your muzzle device.
Originally Posted By Covertness:
Now take a wrench and try to spin off your muzzle device.
I did, it stayed put.
