Removing Colt A2 stock tube?

Without destroying lower or tube?

Colt uses lock tight or something on them about 75% off the time. of the 4 i have removed the A2 stocks from one unscrewed easy. two make an audible "crack" noise when the tube finally broke free, destroying the tube in the process. I'm trying to go slower on the last one. I really want to salvage the tube. Have tried soaking the threads with a light oil, no go. Heating it with a hair dryer, no go. Putting iit in the freezer, no go.

Any tips?

Try heating the tube/lowers ring with a torch? Might help the loctite break free.

What wrench are you using?

ETA- how are you holding/supporting the lower?

A hair drier, Really?

27- series of locking compound take about 450' to break the bond

482 DEGF according to Loctite.

I have not come across a Colt factory built gun with fixed tube that had a thread locker on it, it was most likely mounted dry with no type of wet lubricant. The receiver and tube are both aluminum, so you have to be careful so you don't damage things. Make sure you have a proper fitting tight wrench, many of the multi-armorer wrenches have an open box end style wrench slot which will work fine. I might also suggest finding a wrench that supports the entire lug on the back of the tube, as this will give you 360-degree contact on the lug.

The buffer tube is a right hand thread, so make sure you are rotating counter-clockwise to remove it. Brace the lower receiver into a vise using a magazine well block. Some of the magazine well blocks are stiffer than others, so if the one you are using is flexing, then have an assistant push on the grip in the opposite direction of the flexing in order to provide a more solid platform. I might also suggest using some type of creeping lubricant like Kroil, penetrating oils are okay but you will do better with the Kroil (imho). Then if the threads are still not letting loose, then try putting it into the deep freeze to help shrink the tolerances to get the Kroil to work its way and then try to remove the tube again, and if that doesn't work then you can add a little heat to the threads with a propane torch (no plasma cutting).

If all else fails, then either get it to us or figure out a way to cross paths with us when were are on the road to teach an armorers course somewhere, and I am sure we can get it loose.

CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
SLR15 Rifles
TheDefensiveEdge.com
(763) 712-0123

I got the last two free with an armorers wrench. through the "nut" portion of the tube was ruined in the process. steel wrench plus aluminum "nut" and a couple hundred pounds of torque quikly destroyed them.

More heat might be your friend, to try to loosen up the bond between the tube and the lower with a torch.

Did you remove the pistol grip and clamp the flats there in a smooth faced vice? I've found the extra support helps them release.

If you're worried about rounding the nut you could always drill two holes in the front part of the tube and unscrew it like a 601 tube.

Apply heat via propane torch directly to the inside of the buffer tube, where it is threaded into the receiver. Once it is hot, then apply Kroil. A good aftermarket stock wrench the fully grabs the stud of the tube on all sides (360-degrees) will help. You can also try locking the tube into a set of soft rubber vise jaws, or wrap the tube with a thin piece of rubber (from an old bike tire inner tube) and place into a set of aluminum barrel jaws (unless you have some of the lined jaws, and be very careful when doing this method as it is easy to crush or damage the tube. If all else fails, figure out a way to cross my staffs path when we are teaching an armorers course somewhere and we will be happy to get the tube off.


CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
SLR15 Rifles
TheDefensiveEdge.com
(763) 712-0123

Copyright © 1996 - 2013 :: AR15.Com LLC :: All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.