What Oil/Cleaners YOU Use and WHY.

I know this may be along and heated debate as to wether all oils are all the same or not. The main reason to this thread is to help others decide on what would be best for them to use. Please provide the reasons as to why you like to use the specific oil and cleaners that you do. Pictures would be great aslo. Let's get this started.

Lube - Slip 2000. Breakfree CLP evaporates way too fast.

I use Hoppe #9 Solvent to clean everything and then Hoppe Elite to lube everything including the bore. Sometimes I'll blast of the BCG with Gun Scrubber if its really carbon fouled.

For cleaning the bore I use Breakfree CLP. It's what I used when I bought my first gun and it seems to work.

For lube I use Froglube. I read a lot of positive stuff online about it and I didn't know what lube to use when I first got my AR so I gave it a try and I like it.

I use Hoppes #9 to clean the bore because thats what i have always done and it works. I use Slip 2000 to clean everything else because of its non-toxic properties. I use Slip 2000 EWL to lubricate because it's the best lube I've tried.

To clean, I use non-chlorine break cleaner for general scrubbing, Butch's Bore shine for my bore. I use a combination of Mobil1 synthetic and high temp white grease for lubrication.

Hoppes #9 and Mobil1

Been using Hoppes #9 for 37 years and the Mobil1 is in every engine and firearm

I use M-PRO7 cleaner and lube. I was told it is a safe cleaner to use for tritium night sights so Ive just been sticking to it. Im sure there are other cleaners and lubes that are safe as well but this one happens to be readily available in my area.

CLP for everything including lubing on all my rifles and handguns (except the glock, which gets cleaned with alcohol).

Froglube paste and foaming bore cleaner when needed.
I wanted to dislike froglube due to the marketing of those selling it, and its sister products, but in my experience it really does do about all they claim it does, and I store my rifle for months sometimes, and its always lubed and ready to go. No evaporation or runoff.

Hoppe's #9 or Black Off (for corrosive ammo but works with the regular stuff, too) for cleaning. Sometimes some carb. cleaner or brake cleaner as well.

3n1 oil for just wiping stuff off, RemOil spray after the carb cleaner or brake cleaner (to put some oil/lube back in the pores of the metal) and then I wipe off the excess and lube with Mobil 1 or marine grade beaing grease (only for the M1's and M1A's).

I use 50/50% motor oil and atf

I use:
Slip EWL for internal lubrication- this lube seems to soak in and become part of the metal. Although I usually put a couple of drops into the BCG holes after 3/400 rounds, I know I could go a lot longer without lubing if I had to. It also seems to make cleaning a lot easier.
Slip EWG Grease light on trigger, bolt carrier rails and cam pin- it lasts and it works for me!
Slip Carbon Killer and Slip 725 Degreaser for cleaning

Yes, I’m a Slip whore, BUT… The Carbon Killer is OK, I guess, but it still doesn’t dissolve the carbon on the bolt tail like I hoped it would. I still wind up scraping- I’d like to find a better product for that task.

Partial thread highjack: any suggestions for a good copper remover from the bore, other than Hoppes? While I don't mind the smell, my wife hates it, and it does permeate the house.

John

I use this

What is the advantage of using a grease as opposed to using regular oil?

Upside is that it stays put and doesn't evaporate and typically is better handling pressure.
Downside is that it gums up, retards bcg/cycling speed, and is a pita to remove.

I now use froglube paste. I doubt its as good under load as a grease with ep addatives, but it does well enough.

If I wanted to use a one-thing-that-is-supposed-to-do-it-all-CLP type of product, then I'd use G96 synthetic CLP.

But given that there are other, more "application-specific" choices available, I prefer to use Ballistol for general C & P applications.

And then tend to use something else like Weapon Shield or Synth motor oil for (L) lube applications.

Lube: motor oil or SLIP2000 EWL.

Cleaning: lately I've actually taken to just wiping off the parts with a rag, degreasing with rubbing alcohol, then wiping off again. No scrubbing and it takes about one minute total, and I get some very clean parts without that annoying residue that CLP leaves that never wipes off. Unlike harsh gun cleaners though, rubbing alcohol doesn't leave the metal bone dry. Upper receiver/barrel/chamber get sprayed out with CLP, left to soak, then wiped/swabbed clean.

For cleaners I use MPro 7 Gun Cleaner (best powder remover), MPro 7 Copper Remover (good on copper fouling), and Bluewonder Gun Cleaner (also good on powder fouling. For oils I like Break Free CLP (last very long and is a good powder remover) G96 Gun Treatment (good rust remover), and Tetra Gun (the best lubricity I ever seen for a gun oil).

Always use Hoppes to clean, and Mobil 1 motor oil to lube.

For cleaning I use Hoppes #9, for lubrication I use Liquid Wrench, for grease I use Stainless Slick.

My dad always used Hoppes, I like the smell of it. Liquid Wrench is a good thick oil, and it smells good. And stainless Slick works good, and has no smell.

I use Hoppes #9 for cleaning the bore and have used it for many many years on all firearms I own. Have a bottle Butches Bore Shine that I will use when I run outta the current supply of Hoppes.

Use CLP where a light film of oil is needed.

On my Geisselle trigger I use the red grease that came with it. I think I read some where it is an aviation grease of some kind. May have to go to the local airport and see if I can find an A&P that uses that and get a spoonful of it sometime,

Usually use TW25B on the Cam Pin, Bolt, Bolt Carrier, and where the bolt rides in the upper.
As a side note I have also used CLP on these areas with no problems. Also used a grease that came with an exercise machine we bought a few years ago. Had to put the thing together and there was a plastic bag with an orange grease in it to grease the friction surfaces and had a LOT of it left over. It came from China so I have no idea what kind it is but it has worked VERY well. Cleanup with this stuff was remarkably easy...but its that way with the TW25B also. I usually dont shoot more than about 300 rounds per outting tho.

May use the Mobil 1 someday but I doubt it. Dont really want my guns to smell like a car engine. The other stuff works fine and I am not so strapped that I can not afford gun lubes yet. But I would use it in a pinch.

I haven't found a lube that really out preformed others by all that much.

And can keep my M4 going with about any of them!


M-Pro7 LPX gun oil
Why?? It works for me

I also use the 32oz M-Pro7 cleaner
Why ?? it was cheap non toxic , speeds up cleaning process big time.

i clean with CLP / hoppes, then Otis oil for the barrel, and mobile 1 for lube of the piston, BCG and lower internals.

To clean Mineral spirits, brake cleaner, bore scrubber and or hoppe's

M-Pro7 & CLP to clean. I like to use the M-Pro7 on removed parts that I can spray and soak, surfaces, and the bore. I like to use CLP on the exterior surfaces or interior surfaces where I want the CLP to cling and work for a while (Like the inside of the upper). Its thicker and tends to stick and stay where you put it a little better than a solvent and so I can just let it work for abit while I work on other things. Sometimes I'll place the parts in a tray and give them a few shots of Gun Scrubber or non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

Slip 2000 EWL for lube for interior moving parts....BCG, rails, Cam Pin, etc. CLP to lube places that just need a drop here or there or places that don't take as much friction or abuse.

Hoppes #9 and Breakfree CLP because they do, IMO, everything that needs to be done in a completely satisfactory manner.

crisco

I mixed up some Ed's Red over the weekend and cleaned a few guns with it. It worked OK, but wife was not amused. I mixed it in the garage but cleaned in the basement

This is a Tech forum, not GD ...

I actually do use crisco in my Mosin.

but the AR gets CLP.

My guns are kept in a dry enviroment and CLP & Hoppes #9 are all I use. For the rifles that need it, I use a store of USGI rifle grease I bought years ago.

Why ?

FWIW, I called Gunslick about their foaming bore cleaner and the told me that they do not recommend it in rifles with a gas port, I.e. D.I. AR's.
Said something about the foam getting in the gas port/tube and it being hard to remove.

Your call.

I use WeaponShield. It works great. Try it.

I used to use good ole Break-Free CLP to clean and Slip 2000 EWL to lube!

I used it for several deployments and it has never let me down!

Shoot some gun-scrubber down the gas-tube after you use it and all will be well.

Tried Weaponshield and while an excellent lubricant it cokes badly when it burns off and holds up poorly to the temperatures experienced on the tail of the bolt/in the expanding gas chamber that is the BCG.

I've used the old Slick 50 for M1's and bolt guns, mixed 50/50 with Mobil One for several years now. I just picked up an RRA Lar15, and I'm thinking about using that potion on the bcg and some down the bore. Any opinions? Our annual rodeo exhibitions usually include a display where a V8 engine is run with the Slick 50/motor oil for a couple of hours, then drain the crankcase and run the engine for 24 hours with NO OIL! That's when I first used it for my M1's, no problems so far....

that's exactly what the tech at Gunslick told me over the phone. He said its not required most of the time, but some people let the stuff sit overnight, in which case it can leave behind some residue requiring removal.

Ditto, I spent to many years smelling CLP. I can't stand it. M-7Pro products don't make wanna spew. I like M-7Pro products.

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