Archived Posts » 59,859,448
CLP and corrosive ammo
3/1/2009 5:13:35 PM
Never used corrosive ammo before and just wanted to know if CLP alone would be enough to clean a rifle. I've also read about warm soapy water but would
rather save that for the black powder guns.
rather save that for the black powder guns.
3/1/2009 5:22:22 PM
windex for corrosive ammo
3/1/2009 5:25:19 PM
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
3/1/2009 5:38:10 PM
So hot water on the bolt and carrier or pretty much the whole workings of the rifle. Not sure on how thorough with the water.
3/1/2009 5:53:42 PM
I rinsed my AK-74 thoroughly with windex after a range trip, 5 hours later it was coated in fuzzy rust.
If you can't clean it thoroughly, don't bother. Just do a complete clean as soon as you can, and yes CLP works wonders when shooting corrosive.
If you can't clean it thoroughly, don't bother. Just do a complete clean as soon as you can, and yes CLP works wonders when shooting corrosive.
3/1/2009 5:54:08 PM
anything that would be exposed to residue
3/1/2009 6:03:46 PM
I take my Krink apart after shooting and run hot soapy water through the barrel and the rest of the parts. Blow it dry and clean with CLP
3/1/2009 6:06:15 PM
Thanks guys. It's almost like muzzle loading.
3/1/2009 6:13:34 PM
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
Water is what you need.
What you have to do after firing corrosive ammo is dissolve the salts that are in the primer residue. Those salts absorb water out of the air and that's what causes rusting. Normal gun cleaners don't work very well, if at all, for corrosive ammo residue.
Most people don't like pouring cold water on their guns. The alternatives that I've seen used or used myself in the past are:
1) Use hot water to rinse all the parts with gas fouling off.
Pros are it's cheap and it's pretty easy to get to.
Con is I don't have a teakettle at the range and my guns will start rusting by the time I make it home.
2) Ballistol mixed 1:10 with water.
Pros are it works very well to get the residue off and it still protects the steel. Ballistol is a pretty good lube and protectant also when used unmixed. Ballistol also smells halfway decent.
Con: It's another thing to buy.
3) Soapy water. This works because the soap cuts thru the grease and the water washes away the salts. Available as a premade solution like Mpro7 (which I've used a lot) or Simple Green Extreem (Simple Green w/o the nasty odor and coloring).
Pros: Can be used anywhere, at any temp above freezing. Also works great to remove old lube and carbon.
Cons: Mpro7 and Simple Green Extreem really do remove all the old lube, leaving behind unprotected steel. You must (MUST!) relube immediately after using this type of cleaner.
I'm on my 2nd case of corrosive Yugo M67 ball and have had 0 rusting problems since using methods 2 and 3. You can't (unless you live in a fricken desert) not clean you weapons the same day after using corrosive ammo. Chrome plating will only slow the rust down, it will not stop it. I have a Chinese SKS which is proof of that. BSW
Originally Posted By Fields_Overseer:
after shooting corrsosive, we always wash with water, is this necessary or will a normal cleaning (detailed everytime) get it out?
after shooting corrsosive, we always wash with water, is this necessary or will a normal cleaning (detailed everytime) get it out?
Water is what you need.
What you have to do after firing corrosive ammo is dissolve the salts that are in the primer residue. Those salts absorb water out of the air and that's what causes rusting. Normal gun cleaners don't work very well, if at all, for corrosive ammo residue.
Most people don't like pouring cold water on their guns. The alternatives that I've seen used or used myself in the past are:
1) Use hot water to rinse all the parts with gas fouling off.
Pros are it's cheap and it's pretty easy to get to.
Con is I don't have a teakettle at the range and my guns will start rusting by the time I make it home.
2) Ballistol mixed 1:10 with water.
Pros are it works very well to get the residue off and it still protects the steel. Ballistol is a pretty good lube and protectant also when used unmixed. Ballistol also smells halfway decent.
Con: It's another thing to buy.
3) Soapy water. This works because the soap cuts thru the grease and the water washes away the salts. Available as a premade solution like Mpro7 (which I've used a lot) or Simple Green Extreem (Simple Green w/o the nasty odor and coloring).
Pros: Can be used anywhere, at any temp above freezing. Also works great to remove old lube and carbon.
Cons: Mpro7 and Simple Green Extreem really do remove all the old lube, leaving behind unprotected steel. You must (MUST!) relube immediately after using this type of cleaner.
I'm on my 2nd case of corrosive Yugo M67 ball and have had 0 rusting problems since using methods 2 and 3. You can't (unless you live in a fricken desert) not clean you weapons the same day after using corrosive ammo. Chrome plating will only slow the rust down, it will not stop it. I have a Chinese SKS which is proof of that. BSW
Link HERE
3/1/2009 6:32:57 PM
Originally Posted By K-9:
I take my Krink apart after shooting and run hot soapy water through the barrel and the rest of the parts. Blow it dry and clean with CLP
I take my Krink apart after shooting and run hot soapy water through the barrel and the rest of the parts. Blow it dry and clean with CLP
+1 on this
I give my AK's and NDM a good bath in the tub, then clean normally with CLP
Z
3/1/2009 8:15:34 PM
I run steaming hot water threw everything that could come in contact with the powder. I then run windex threw it...then water again. Better safe than sorry.
3/1/2009 8:28:33 PM
Originally Posted By w107rsf:
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
actually its the ammonia in the windex
3/1/2009 8:36:20 PM
Originally Posted By survivorman:
actually its the ammonia in the windex
Originally Posted By w107rsf:
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
actually its the ammonia in the windex
no its the water
3/1/2009 9:14:34 PM
Water dissolves the salts = lifts them away. Ammonia-D helps loosen and takes away the salts with the aid of the water. In combination they are a great tool for cleaning salt acids (Sodium Petrochlorate) out of a rifle. Hot water is better than cold, but neither neutralize the salt acids.
I have found that Moly Resin'ing my firearms and using CorrosionX have kept my firearms free of rust/corrosion. I use a bore snake instead of a cleaning rod. If i clean my rifle after shooting, there as not been one time that a sign of rust or corrosion was spotted afterwards.
I'm considering doing one of my little field tests using the methods that have been discribed here. I would use 5.45 Russian Surplus 77 and two tantal muzzle brakes. Just throwing the idea out there
I have found that Moly Resin'ing my firearms and using CorrosionX have kept my firearms free of rust/corrosion. I use a bore snake instead of a cleaning rod. If i clean my rifle after shooting, there as not been one time that a sign of rust or corrosion was spotted afterwards.
I'm considering doing one of my little field tests using the methods that have been discribed here. I would use 5.45 Russian Surplus 77 and two tantal muzzle brakes. Just throwing the idea out there
3/1/2009 10:05:23 PM
Originally Posted By SickMAK90:
I run steaming hot water threw everything that could come in contact with the powder. I then run windex threw it...then water again. Better safe than sorry.
I run steaming hot water threw everything that could come in contact with the powder. I then run windex threw it...then water again. Better safe than sorry.
incorrect: the ammonia is good for brass, but the water is what gets rid of the salt
3/1/2009 10:40:10 PM
Originally Posted By w107rsf:
incorrect: the ammonia is good for brass, but the water is what gets rid of the salt
Originally Posted By SickMAK90:
I run steaming hot water threw everything that could come in contact with the powder. I then run windex threw it...then water again. Better safe than sorry.
I run steaming hot water threw everything that could come in contact with the powder. I then run windex threw it...then water again. Better safe than sorry.
incorrect: the ammonia is good for brass, but the water is what gets rid of the salt
+1
I have never used anything with ammonia in it to clean my AKs after shooting about 1400 rounds of corrosive Yugo M67.
I have used Ballistol-water and Mpro7. BSW
3/2/2009 1:25:14 PM
On the other end of the spectrum, I use NO water/Windex when cleaning after shooting coorosive ammo, and clean all of the parts very thoroughly with Hoppes/Gunscrubber/other solvents........no rust.
3/2/2009 1:25:40 PM
I think the ammonia could potentially be bad for chrome lining.
3/2/2009 2:03:27 PM
Water neutralizes the corrosive salts. The best method I have used is 1 part Ballistol mixed with 10 parts water. The water flushes/neutralizes the salts (with a little help from the Ballistol), while the Ballistol instantly leaves a thin layer of lub/rust protection. Just using plain water can sometimes cause a little bit of flash rusting, adding Ballistol stops that.
Plus, a nice bonus to the Ballistol is that it smells great
Plus, a nice bonus to the Ballistol is that it smells great
3/2/2009 2:09:24 PM
Originally Posted By CopM4:
I think the ammonia could potentially be bad for chrome lining.
I think the ammonia could potentially be bad for chrome lining.
It takes a lot and left a long time to seep into the micro pores of the chrome and get to the copper what binds the chrome to the steel.
Never mind the nitpicks about neutralize vs dissolve, I know the ammonia glass cleaner in my travel bottle won't get foosty in between uses like plain water. And it's more classy than peeing on the gun.
3/2/2009 3:28:34 PM
use 1 part water, 1 part windex. spray in the chamber/ barrel. Get a boresnake, spray some on the brush end and run it through. Doesnt rust the barrel and i do this after everytime i shoot with corrosive ammo.
Boresnakes are the funk
Boresnakes are the funk
3/2/2009 3:30:41 PM
Originally Posted By sawgunner73:
On the other end of the spectrum, I use NO water/Windex when cleaning after shooting coorosive ammo, and clean all of the parts very thoroughly with Hoppes/Gunscrubber/other solvents........no rust.
On the other end of the spectrum, I use NO water/Windex when cleaning after shooting coorosive ammo, and clean all of the parts very thoroughly with Hoppes/Gunscrubber/other solvents........no rust.
Neither did I when I lived in New Mexico. I wen thru a case of '50s .303 Brit and never cleaned the rifle with anything besides CLP. No rust.
Here in Oregon I've seen rifles rusting before I left the range. Admittedly it was raining at the time. BSW
3/7/2009 10:16:33 AM
Originally Posted By Shrike37:
Water neutralizes the corrosive salts. The best method I have used is 1 part Ballistol mixed with 10 parts water. The water flushes/neutralizes the salts (with a little help from the Ballistol), while the Ballistol instantly leaves a thin layer of lub/rust protection. Just using plain water can sometimes cause a little bit of flash rusting, adding Ballistol stops that.
Plus, a nice bonus to the Ballistol is that it smells great
Water neutralizes the corrosive salts. The best method I have used is 1 part Ballistol mixed with 10 parts water. The water flushes/neutralizes the salts (with a little help from the Ballistol), while the Ballistol instantly leaves a thin layer of lub/rust protection. Just using plain water can sometimes cause a little bit of flash rusting, adding Ballistol stops that.
Plus, a nice bonus to the Ballistol is that it smells great
Water does not neutalize the salt acids, it dissolves. But that method is best for most people.
3/16/2009 1:02:05 PM
Best to use Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner. No soap and water necessary. With CLP you would still have to use soap and water.
3/16/2009 9:52:54 PM
Originally Posted By survivorman:
actually its the ammonia in the windex
Originally Posted By w107rsf:
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
Windex will work, but its the water in the Windex that dissolves the salts. water is your best bet, hot water is even better.
actually its the ammonia in the windex
There is no ammonia in Windex. Ammonia D in Windex is really just alcohol included as a surfactant.
http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/msds/140533.pdf
3/28/2009 7:34:42 AM
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
3/28/2009 10:33:33 AM
Originally Posted By Asclepius:
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
BSW
3/28/2009 11:29:16 AM
Originally Posted By Asclepius:
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Everyone here that "thinks" that water and/or soap Neutralize or break down corrosive (KCL) salts has NO clue what they are talking about.
Chemistry people
Hell if water neutralized KCL salts then there wouldn't be salt water...... Water simply helps dissolve inorder to flush out... Soap helps this process, but does not neutralize squat.
Boiling water is more effective than room temp water, but yet does not neutralize.... Remember KCL salts are inorganic thus very Polar. Guess what Water is very Polar toooo. Oils, CLP and others are Non-Polar. Meaning that non polar solvents (CLP) can not dissolve KCL salts or even water.
Why do i use CorrosionX? Well, its well known to have a Polar bond and non polar bond. The polar bond attaches to the Metal and the non polar bond is forcing/pushing away WATER and CORROSIVE SALTS (KCL). Its able to displace water and corrosion.
from their website
A corrosion cell is similar to a tiny battery. There is an anode, cathode, electrolyte and a path of current. Eliminate any one of these elements and you can shut down the process. FTFC doesn't stop with just one, it removes two: it displaces electrolyte and leaves an ultra-thin dielectric film that blocks the path of current. And, because of its film thickness, it won't interfere with circuitry.
This is not Chem 101, but more like inorganic or organic chem. Its not simple, but its easy to understand once you have a finger on it.
3/31/2009 6:00:54 PM
should do the job I use CLP on my AR
4/3/2009 10:24:09 AM
Originally Posted By vp62ift:
should do the job I use CLP on my AR
should do the job I use CLP on my AR
How much corrosive ammo have you been shooting in your AR?
4/3/2009 10:26:05 AM
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
Originally Posted By Asclepius:
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
Ughhh... I sure as hell do. Dries my hands out something fierce.
But, it cuts through carbon like a fiend! I use it on a nickeled Colt Cobra since Hoppe's #9 is a no-go for nickel. It works very well. I've since started using it on the barrel extension/star chamber on my ARs.
Pricey stuff, though.
4/3/2009 11:32:37 AM
Swab everything with Dishwashing soap (I use Palmolive,Dove or whatever the wife has around) & Hot water, Then clean everything with CLP.
4/3/2009 12:20:01 PM
Originally Posted By strat81:
Ughhh... I sure as hell do. Dries my hands out something fierce.
But, it cuts through carbon like a fiend! I use it on a nickeled Colt Cobra since Hoppe's #9 is a no-go for nickel. It works very well. I've since started using it on the barrel extension/star chamber on my ARs.
Pricey stuff, though.
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
Originally Posted By Asclepius:
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
Ughhh... I sure as hell do. Dries my hands out something fierce.
But, it cuts through carbon like a fiend! I use it on a nickeled Colt Cobra since Hoppe's #9 is a no-go for nickel. It works very well. I've since started using it on the barrel extension/star chamber on my ARs.
Pricey stuff, though.
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
4/3/2009 9:26:17 PM
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
Cool, I'll have to look into that!
It also appears to be available in 55gal drums.
4/3/2009 9:40:02 PM
I use the cheapest 18 year old single malt I can find, mixed with Dawn dishwashing detergent.
Or hot water, whichever is cheapest at the time.
The detergent helps to cut the grease, the water dissolves and flushes away the salt.
It is a centuries old method, (though originally soap was used instead of detergent), and it works quite well.
I don't understand why it fell out of favor.
Or hot water, whichever is cheapest at the time.
The detergent helps to cut the grease, the water dissolves and flushes away the salt.
It is a centuries old method, (though originally soap was used instead of detergent), and it works quite well.
I don't understand why it fell out of favor.
4/4/2009 5:48:45 AM
For non vital parts of a gun I use Simple Green. For the Vitals I use either M-Pro 7 or Blue Wonder. Both MPro 7 and Blue Wonder is hard on the hands, that's why I use latex gloves when using those two.
6/5/2009 2:47:59 PM
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
Originally Posted By strat81:
Ughhh... I sure as hell do. Dries my hands out something fierce.
But, it cuts through carbon like a fiend! I use it on a nickeled Colt Cobra since Hoppe's #9 is a no-go for nickel. It works very well. I've since started using it on the barrel extension/star chamber on my ARs.
Pricey stuff, though.
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
Originally Posted By Asclepius:
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
You do realize that Mpro7 is a soap in water?
Ughhh... I sure as hell do. Dries my hands out something fierce.
But, it cuts through carbon like a fiend! I use it on a nickeled Colt Cobra since Hoppe's #9 is a no-go for nickel. It works very well. I've since started using it on the barrel extension/star chamber on my ARs.
Pricey stuff, though.
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
Also available at Home Depot...
6/10/2009 12:13:23 PM
Originally Posted By Buck_Naked:
Also available at Home Depot...
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
I've started using Simple Green Extreem aircraft cleaner instead of Mpro7. It's pretty much the detergents from SG w/o the coloring and nasty odor. Doesn't eat aluminum either since it's certed safe for aircraft.
Best part is it's $19 per gallon, or roughly 1/4 the price of Mpro7. I got it at http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html and have been using it the past few months. No corrosion problems on AK, AR, or pistols since I've switched. BSW
Also available at Home Depot...
That's good to know. Thanks!
6/11/2009 1:57:31 PM
Originally Posted By rube79:
Everyone here that "thinks" that water and/or soap Neutralize or break down corrosive (KCL) salts has NO clue what they are talking about.
Chemistry people Hell if water neutralized KCL salts then there wouldn't be salt water...... Water simply helps dissolve inorder to flush out... Soap helps this process, but does not neutralize squat.
Boiling water is more effective than room temp water, but yet does not neutralize.... Remember KCL salts are inorganic thus very Polar. Guess what Water is very Polar toooo. Oils, CLP and others are Non-Polar. Meaning that non polar solvents (CLP) can not dissolve KCL salts or even water.
Why do i use CorrosionX? Well, its well known to have a Polar bond and non polar bond. The polar bond attaches to the Metal and the non polar bond is forcing/pushing away WATER and CORROSIVE SALTS (KCL). Its able to displace water and corrosion.
from their website
This is not Chem 101, but more like inorganic or organic chem. Its not simple, but its easy to understand once you have a finger on it.
Originally Posted By Asclepius:
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Get youself some MPro 7 Gun Cleaner. No soap and water requird, because MPro 7 nutralizes the corrosive salts. Remember to oil your rifle after cleaning.
Everyone here that "thinks" that water and/or soap Neutralize or break down corrosive (KCL) salts has NO clue what they are talking about.
Chemistry people
Hell if water neutralized KCL salts then there wouldn't be salt water...... Water simply helps dissolve inorder to flush out... Soap helps this process, but does not neutralize squat.
Boiling water is more effective than room temp water, but yet does not neutralize.... Remember KCL salts are inorganic thus very Polar. Guess what Water is very Polar toooo. Oils, CLP and others are Non-Polar. Meaning that non polar solvents (CLP) can not dissolve KCL salts or even water.
Why do i use CorrosionX? Well, its well known to have a Polar bond and non polar bond. The polar bond attaches to the Metal and the non polar bond is forcing/pushing away WATER and CORROSIVE SALTS (KCL). Its able to displace water and corrosion.
from their website
A corrosion cell is similar to a tiny battery. There is an anode, cathode, electrolyte and a path of current. Eliminate any one of these elements and you can shut down the process. FTFC doesn't stop with just one, it removes two: it displaces electrolyte and leaves an ultra-thin dielectric film that blocks the path of current. And, because of its film thickness, it won't interfere with circuitry.
This is not Chem 101, but more like inorganic or organic chem. Its not simple, but its easy to understand once you have a finger on it.
Do Troops in the field that are issued AK type weapons clean with hot water...I mean I just think that if you clean with clp you will be OK , Ive never had any issues like my gun rusting on the way back from the range
6/11/2009 3:30:25 PM
Originally Posted By rljones:
Do Troops in the field that are issued AK type weapons clean with hot water...I mean I just think that if you clean with clp you will be OK , Ive never had any issues like my gun rusting on the way back from the range
Do Troops in the field that are issued AK type weapons clean with hot water...I mean I just think that if you clean with clp you will be OK , Ive never had any issues like my gun rusting on the way back from the range
Sov troops were issues with 'Alkali Cleaning Solution' which had stuff in it that alkaline dissolved in, you guessed it, water.
Which part of FL do you live in? What corrosive surplus were you shooting? I've never been to a part of FL that steel wouldn't rust in. BSW
6/12/2009 12:46:19 PM
Originally Posted By briansmithwins:
Sov troops were issues with 'Alkali Cleaning Solution' which had stuff in it that alkaline dissolved in, you guessed it, water.
Which part of FL do you live in? What corrosive surplus were you shooting? I've never been to a part of FL that steel wouldn't rust in. BSW
Originally Posted By rljones:
Do Troops in the field that are issued AK type weapons clean with hot water...I mean I just think that if you clean with clp you will be OK , Ive never had any issues like my gun rusting on the way back from the range
Do Troops in the field that are issued AK type weapons clean with hot water...I mean I just think that if you clean with clp you will be OK , Ive never had any issues like my gun rusting on the way back from the range
Sov troops were issues with 'Alkali Cleaning Solution' which had stuff in it that alkaline dissolved in, you guessed it, water.
Which part of FL do you live in? What corrosive surplus were you shooting? I've never been to a part of FL that steel wouldn't rust in. BSW
Tampa/St Pete ..7.62x39 chicom steel core 1966 manuf..545x39 soviet..7.62 x 54 ...just clean my guns well afterwards with old GI surplus bore solvent followed by CLP and they dont have a spot of rust. Thanks for the info on the stuff the soviet troops were issued. I just think the rusting issues are overblown. Never ever heard of a WW2 vet talk of cleaning weapons with soapy water and what not while they were in the field...
6/12/2009 1:01:53 PM
I stand a bit corrected...Just read a old M1 carbine manual that said to clean with bore solvent then wipe with oil...if no bore solvent warm water can be used but that warm soapy water is best......6/12/2009 1:35:41 PM
Originally Posted By rljones:
I stand a bit corrected...Just read a old M1 carbine manual that said to clean with bore solvent then wipe with oil...if no bore solvent warm water can be used but that warm soapy water is best......
I stand a bit corrected...Just read a old M1 carbine manual that said to clean with bore solvent then wipe with oil...if no bore solvent warm water can be used but that warm soapy water is best......Interesting. As far as I know the M1 Carbine was always issued with non-corrosive primers since the gas piston on those wasn't designed to be maintained by GIs. BSW
6/12/2009 2:11:02 PM
I tried to cut and paste ...but was unable to do so
6/18/2009 5:50:21 PM
Hoppers #9, then CLP metal, and grease parts.
6/22/2009 12:36:15 AM
I'd seen users mention the use of Simple Green Exteme here before, but I was unable to find any at Walmart, Checker Auto, etc. However, on a recent visit to Big Lots, of all places, I found these 2 oz. bottles for 50 cents each.
Anyhow, I bought $3 worth and I will try it out after my next trip to the range. This version is marketed as an automotive, rather than aircraft cleaner; though I suspect it's the same thing. Interestingly, the back of the bottle says the product is exclusively available at Sam's Club. I guess it wasn't so popular as these landed at Big Lots.
- cantinista
Anyhow, I bought $3 worth and I will try it out after my next trip to the range. This version is marketed as an automotive, rather than aircraft cleaner; though I suspect it's the same thing. Interestingly, the back of the bottle says the product is exclusively available at Sam's Club. I guess it wasn't so popular as these landed at Big Lots.
- cantinista
6/22/2009 6:49:54 PM
Originally Posted By cantinista:
I'd seen users mention the use of Simple Green Exteme here before, but I was unable to find any at Walmart, Checker Auto, etc. However, on a recent visit to Big Lots, of all places, I found these 2 oz. bottles for 50 cents each.
http://www.golfront.org/images/SGX640.JPG
Anyhow, I bought $3 worth and I will try it out after my next trip to the range. This version is marketed as an automotive, rather than aircraft cleaner; though I suspect it's the same thing. Interestingly, the back of the bottle says the product is exclusively available at Sam's Club. I guess it wasn't so popular as these landed at Big Lots.
- cantinista
I'd seen users mention the use of Simple Green Exteme here before, but I was unable to find any at Walmart, Checker Auto, etc. However, on a recent visit to Big Lots, of all places, I found these 2 oz. bottles for 50 cents each.
http://www.golfront.org/images/SGX640.JPG
Anyhow, I bought $3 worth and I will try it out after my next trip to the range. This version is marketed as an automotive, rather than aircraft cleaner; though I suspect it's the same thing. Interestingly, the back of the bottle says the product is exclusively available at Sam's Club. I guess it wasn't so popular as these landed at Big Lots.
- cantinista
The Aircraft cleaner is so-marked because it is aluminum safe. It is not the same thing.
6/23/2009 10:48:02 PM
Sure enough, I checked the MSDS on both products and they are different. The Extreme Simple Green appears to be a bit more robust of a cleaner; ingredient-wise. However, since the Simple Green Extreme Clean is marketed as Automotive/Industrial, I think it is probably safe for aluminum as well. It makes little difference to me as my FALs, AKs, SKSs, etc are pretty much all steel. I'm more concerned as to whether the Simple Green Extreme Clean is up to the task as a gun cleaner; particularly with respect to corrosive ammo. I will put it to the test pretty soon.
Also, as a side note, Simple Green Extreme Clean is not to be found at simplegreen.com so I suspect it may no longer be available (outside of a Big Lots clearance bin). Or at least it may not be marketed under that name anymore.
- cantinista
Also, as a side note, Simple Green Extreme Clean is not to be found at simplegreen.com so I suspect it may no longer be available (outside of a Big Lots clearance bin). Or at least it may not be marketed under that name anymore.
- cantinista
8/18/2009 12:06:34 AM
Not to beat a dead horse, but I have a S&W M&P 15R that I shoot corrosive russian through. I live about 20 minutes from the range. When I get home, I spray the barrel, the bolt, the inside of the upper down with a lot of windex. I then blow it dry with compressed air, and then clean as normal with Hoppes 9 powder solvent and oil. 1000 rust-free rounds later and this method seems tried, true, and easy.
8/18/2009 12:59:25 PM
Originally Posted By Enf0rc3r:
Not to beat a dead horse, but I have a S&W M&P 15R that I shoot corrosive russian through. I live about 20 minutes from the range. When I get home, I spray the barrel, the bolt, the inside of the upper down with a lot of windex. I then blow it dry with compressed air, and then clean as normal with Hoppes 9 powder solvent and oil. 1000 rust-free rounds later and this method seems tried, true, and easy.
Not to beat a dead horse, but I have a S&W M&P 15R that I shoot corrosive russian through. I live about 20 minutes from the range. When I get home, I spray the barrel, the bolt, the inside of the upper down with a lot of windex. I then blow it dry with compressed air, and then clean as normal with Hoppes 9 powder solvent and oil. 1000 rust-free rounds later and this method seems tried, true, and easy.
You're wasting money using Windex. All you need is water to dissolve the corrosive salts.
8/20/2009 6:12:31 PM
Rocket science this ain't.
Just use hot water to dissolve the residual salts; the hotter, the better. There is a reason that it is called the "Universal Solvent". Plenty cheap, easy enough to do. KCl is an ionic compound and will dissolve quite readily in water.
Use a hairdryer to drive off any remaining moisture and apply your favorite lubricant. It's the best way.
Just use hot water to dissolve the residual salts; the hotter, the better. There is a reason that it is called the "Universal Solvent". Plenty cheap, easy enough to do. KCl is an ionic compound and will dissolve quite readily in water.
Use a hairdryer to drive off any remaining moisture and apply your favorite lubricant. It's the best way.
