G21 gen3- parts to prevent light strikes UPDATE in OP

I need info on what parts work together in this platform that will prevent light strikes on the primer.

the striker spring and the recoil spring oppose eachother so a heavier striker spring would call for a heavier recoil spring...but I dont want shortstroking either.

a weaker recoil spring might let the striker fire a bit out of battery and cause a light strike that way also.

So I need advice from people that have set thier gen 3 G21 up to work reliable with factory ammo.

Recoil spring/rod setups and the striker/ striker spring

BTW I am also ordering a KKM 6" 45 acp barrel for it.

Thanks for any help
—––++++++++––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––


Wolff xtra power firing pin spring installed with 17# recoil spring and no failures.

KKM 6" IS AWESOME.

KRISS super V magex DO NOT WORK.

this is a spring strength issue .

I will get with wolff on this...

anyone with info on a 30 round G21 mag spring - I want to know...

Both springs factory weight would work best. And make sure the gun has the 4256-1 trigger bar. The old 4256 trigger bar didn't pull the firing pin back as far which could result in light strikes.

THE most common cause of light strikes in Glocks is lube/gunk in the striker channel. The striker channel should be completely dry. That means NO lube!!! When you clean out the striker channel, blast it out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

You can add a stronger firing pin spring without changing out the recoil spring. The only problem there occurs when you use a really light recoil spring.

Thanks guys.

My gen 3 has the -1 part so that isnt the problem.

I see wolff sells an extra power striker spring...I will probably try it and a 19 lb recoil spring with the stainless guide rod as well as a stock weight 17 lb spring.

I will also clean out the channel.

I'll update...

I have never had any light primer strikes... so I fail to see the point in all this

Be prepared for a slightly heavier trigger pull. If that's o.k. with you, then the stronger striker spring will help. However, you might try blasting out the striker channel first.

If you clean the firing pin channel and burr up the channel liner this could cause light strikes.

I have only fired a few magazines of factory ammo through it and had one round that would not go bang...even after rechambering and trying again.

I should have kept that factory round to try in another platform but didnt think of it.

then searching the web I find this is a known phenomena.

Its gonna take a while ...I gotta order the parts , do the work and test....but I will update this thread
LORD WILLING.


Thanks again for all the help!

Yes ...I think it may be either striker force related or more likely the breech face is backing away from the primer as the trigger is pulled via rearward cocking of the striker...which ultimately says the recoil spring needs to be significantly heavier than the striker spring.

just theory though...i need range time running different part combinations to know anything for sure.

If you're shooting reloads, then the problem could be as simple as a few primers that aren't seated deeply enough. If your brass is ejecting no more than about 8', then the recoil spring is strong enough.

Copyright © 1996 - 2013 :: AR15.Com LLC :: All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.