best drop in trigger job for a trp
true drop in, non-ccw? or maybe just shoot it until hings start to fail? maybe i will change out he ils internals and see if that helps trigger pull.
all thoughts appreciated.
tia
Ive had good luck with the Cylinder & Slide Tactical II 3 piece set,4lb pull and no creep.
Ive also had very good luck with just replacing the hammer and sear with Wilson Combat A2 Tool steel Sear and Wilson's Deluxe hammer.
Got about a 4.5lb pull,no stoning or fitting,i have 4 1911's with this.
Springers with the ILS will need to be converted to non ILS MSH and original design MSH internals for drop in parts to work best.
C&S in my three 1911s, with no complaints.
So far the Tactical Match is about a 3.5lb pull in my Range Officer, same kit is ~4lb in my RIA. A Marine Corps drop in set is in a Caspian Recon and is very crisp, but i need to work on some frame polishing to free up the trigger.
No complaints so far.
just what i needed to hear. thanks guys!
coltnut, can't i just gut the ILS, replace and use the housing? i read(here iirc)that all you needed was the guts from brownells, no need to replace msh unless you wanted.
i think i'll try one and see how it goes.
Originally Posted By xdmikey:
just what i needed to hear. thanks guys!
coltnut, can't i just gut the ILS, replace and use the housing? i read(here iirc)that all you needed was the guts from brownells, no need to replace msh unless you wanted.
i think i'll try one and see how it goes.
Yes,you can in fact just change the internals in an ILS MSH,the issue you may or may not run into,is if you leave the ILS lock in place,it may catch
the cap pin or spring when you least expect it and your 1911 wont go bang.Ive seen this.You cn also remove the lock in the ILS MSH,no issue here
other than you'll have a hole in your msh.If your good with a hole then all you'll need is the internals from a standard msh and your off to the races.
dude, i've been trying to find a "mainspring kit" in brownells but can't find one. i just found "brownells mainspring housing rebuild kit".
i will examine the "lock" you mentioned and see if i can work with it but i don't know if i'll trust some kind of mickeymouse bs cause with my luck i'll get jacked on my way to the range with my range gun!
thanks for your help!
Originally Posted By coltnut:
Originally Posted By xdmikey:
just what i needed to hear. thanks guys!
coltnut, can't i just gut the ILS, replace and use the housing? i read(here iirc)that all you needed was the guts from brownells, no need to replace msh unless you wanted.
i think i'll try one and see how it goes.
Yes,you can in fact just change the internals in an ILS MSH,the issue you may or may not run into,is if you leave the ILS lock in place,it may catch
the cap pin or spring when you least expect it and your 1911 wont go bang.Ive seen this.You cn also remove the lock in the ILS MSH,no issue here
other than you'll have a hole in your msh.If your good with a hole then all you'll need is the internals from a standard msh and your off to the races.
Is the hammer strut the same length? I have a Springfield with a lock. The mainspring housing did not have the normal retainer pin but had a hole for it. I thought about changing the parts but wondered if they shortened the hammer strut.
Originally Posted By xdmikey:
dude, i've been trying to find a "mainspring kit" in brownells but can't find one. i just found "brownells mainspring housing rebuild kit".
i will examine the "lock" you mentioned and see if i can work with it but i don't know if i'll trust some kind of mickeymouse bs cause with my luck i'll get jacked on my way to the range with my range gun!
thanks for your help!
If you want a kit,order #080-000-549DH Rebuild kit for $8.99 and your set.
You can order just the individual spring,cap and retaining pin-but they added up to $10.50 for the three pieces if bought individually.The kit is the better deal.
Originally Posted By pepe-lepew:
Originally Posted By coltnut:
Originally Posted By xdmikey:
just what i needed to hear. thanks guys!
coltnut, can't i just gut the ILS, replace and use the housing? i read(here iirc)that all you needed was the guts from brownells, no need to replace msh unless you wanted.
i think i'll try one and see how it goes.
Yes,you can in fact just change the internals in an ILS MSH,the issue you may or may not run into,is if you leave the ILS lock in place,it may catch
the cap pin or spring when you least expect it and your 1911 wont go bang.Ive seen this.You cn also remove the lock in the ILS MSH,no issue here
other than you'll have a hole in your msh.If your good with a hole then all you'll need is the internals from a standard msh and your off to the races.
Is the hammer strut the same length? I have a Springfield with a lock. The mainspring housing did not have the normal retainer pin but had a hole for it. I thought about changing the parts but wondered if they shortened the hammer strut.
The hammer strut should be ok,havent change any on the conversions ive done,i did check them for length and they were within a 1/16th of an inch of a standard one,work just fine.I havent heard of anyone else changing the hammer struts when going away from the ILS system.You can just use the kit in the previous post i answered above.
thanks coltnut. when i saw pepe-lepew's post i thought i was going to have to measure the strut.
what msh to replace the ils one? s and a doesnt make one w/magwell and i want to keep the trps as original as possible. i think the PO of my operator has a one piece. ah, found it on the back page, under where i folded the corner: s/a one piece for$66.
getting to be a pricey little project( 2 trps, 1 RO, champion is done iirc).
i broke down my RO today and aside from like to not getting half and full cock back(20 minutes in hot garage)i noticed there isn't a pin holding everything in like in the old style one.
thoughts?
Originally Posted By xdmikey:
i broke down my RO today and aside from like to not getting half and full cock back(20 minutes in hot garage)i noticed there isn't a pin holding everything in like in the old style one.
thoughts?
Did you get the "kit" already?? The ILS system does not have that little retainer pin,when you convert to Non-ILS you gain that little pin that holds everything together again.
If you are not getting half cock or full cock after replacing your MSH assembly,check your sear spring,chances are it's not set in right,center leg of sear spring has to be on hammer side of disconnector.Left side sear spring leg must be on hammer side of sear as well.
Oh,read your other post,dont let that sear spring scare you.When reinstalling the sear spring,get sear spring in channel holding top fingers away a little from sear and disconnector,insert bottom tab of sear spring in slot in bottom of frame,once that is in slot,push forward on upper part of sear spring and it'll fall right where it needs to be.
Hold the hammer strut up with your right thumb while installing the sear spring,try it a few times and you'll be a pro before you know it.Once the sear spring is in place hold it in with your thumb while you slide the msh in.
Originally Posted By xdmikey:
i broke down my RO today and aside from like to not getting half and full cock back(20 minutes in hot garage)i noticed there isn't a pin holding everything in like in the old style one.
thoughts?
You can engage the ILS "lock" which will capture the mainspring and its assembly. They also usually include a small pin (looks like a tiny boomerang) to insert in the MSH retainer pin hole to aid in disassembly.
thanks. RO was ready for business by 1:45.
i don't see how the ils lock could just turn on. also, the topmost piece(cap?)from the ils set looks a lot thicker than the standard one; i don't see how it could cause a problem. i will try it for some heavy range use and get back to you all. unless someone has exprrience to share!
