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Removing 'Desert Dust' from gear...
5/4/2012 10:53:15 PM
Question for you recent war vets...
Is there a way to 'dunk' an upper or lower receiver of a battle rifle to remove the fine dust/dirt from all the nooks and crannies of the piece?
I suppose the best way would be to completely disassemble the rail/handguards and wash them in hot water. Then oil the shit of them?
Any advice would be appreciated...
Is there a way to 'dunk' an upper or lower receiver of a battle rifle to remove the fine dust/dirt from all the nooks and crannies of the piece?
I suppose the best way would be to completely disassemble the rail/handguards and wash them in hot water. Then oil the shit of them?
Any advice would be appreciated...
5/4/2012 11:06:06 PM
Q-tips man, Q-tips. Or baby wipes
5/4/2012 11:08:19 PM
Compressed air.
5/4/2012 11:39:00 PM
When I was in basic training years ago, for turn in, we washed our M16s in the shower in very hot water. They got so hot, they dried off quickly once you wiped them dry. It did not have any bad effects, and even though it sounds ghetto, I don't think its hurts anything. With my old black powder pistols, I used to rinse them in a pot of boiling water after cleaning. They dried out immediately. Of course you have to oil them right after.
5/5/2012 12:38:52 AM
High pressure can of break-cleaner, then q-tips and oil.
5/5/2012 1:29:24 AM
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
5/5/2012 1:42:37 AM
Originally Posted By Gibsonguy30:
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
Very important, use non-chlorinated cleaner if you do that.
Chlorinated cleaning products can eat aluminum.
5/5/2012 1:46:30 AM
Hot shower with mild GP cleaner and weapons brush, dry it and oil it as soon as possible after.
5/5/2012 8:27:22 AM
Originally Posted By Gibsonguy30:
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
Brake cleaner is good. After we disassembled our rifles (including removing the FCG and rail), we used CRC Brakleen in the green cans to strip off dirt/carbon, wiped out carbon & dirt with shop towels, relubed with WD40, and wiped off the excess oil. I admit it sounds weird, but this is what my mechanics had readily available (cases of it) and I could never get CLP or other oils in stock
ETA: We always disassembled our rifles for best results. The brake cleaner seemed to leave a white residue, but the WD40 going back over it removed that and made the rifle look damn near new.
Good luck!
5/5/2012 10:12:29 AM
Originally Posted By Brian252:
When I was in basic training years ago, for turn in, we washed our M16s in the shower in very hot water. They got so hot, they dried off quickly once you wiped them dry. It did not have any bad effects, and even though it sounds ghetto, I don't think its hurts anything. With my old black powder pistols, I used to rinse them in a pot of boiling water after cleaning. They dried out immediately. Of course you have to oil them right after.
When I was in basic training years ago, for turn in, we washed our M16s in the shower in very hot water. They got so hot, they dried off quickly once you wiped them dry. It did not have any bad effects, and even though it sounds ghetto, I don't think its hurts anything. With my old black powder pistols, I used to rinse them in a pot of boiling water after cleaning. They dried out immediately. Of course you have to oil them right after.
We did it in the laundry room. Hot water, soap, big ass brush and shook them dry.
5/5/2012 1:09:47 PM
+1
this is the best way I have found to do an initial clean on equipment/clothes that has been exposed to fine particulate matter. 80psi works OK, but 120ish psi works best.
then follow up with Q-tips, solvents, etc. if needed
advntrjnky
this is the best way I have found to do an initial clean on equipment/clothes that has been exposed to fine particulate matter. 80psi works OK, but 120ish psi works best.
then follow up with Q-tips, solvents, etc. if needed
advntrjnky
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Compressed air.
Compressed air.
5/5/2012 1:18:36 PM
Barber brush and lots of time
5/5/2012 2:00:45 PM
Originally Posted By cosmos556:
Brake cleaner is good. After we disassembled our rifles (including removing the FCG and rail), we used CRC Brakleen in the green cans to strip off dirt/carbon, wiped out carbon & dirt with shop towels, relubed with WD40, and wiped off the excess oil. I admit it sounds weird, but this is what my mechanics had readily available (cases of it) and I could never get CLP or other oils in stock
ETA: We always disassembled our rifles for best results. The brake cleaner seemed to leave a white residue, but the WD40 going back over it removed that and made the rifle look damn near new.
Good luck!
Originally Posted By Gibsonguy30:
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
I forgot about brake-cleaner...I would not have to take it apart then.
Brake cleaner is good. After we disassembled our rifles (including removing the FCG and rail), we used CRC Brakleen in the green cans to strip off dirt/carbon, wiped out carbon & dirt with shop towels, relubed with WD40, and wiped off the excess oil. I admit it sounds weird, but this is what my mechanics had readily available (cases of it) and I could never get CLP or other oils in stock
ETA: We always disassembled our rifles for best results. The brake cleaner seemed to leave a white residue, but the WD40 going back over it removed that and made the rifle look damn near new.
Good luck!
Might want to rethink using WD40 as a lube.
No-go
5/6/2012 8:16:20 AM
Hmmm, interesting. Looks like WD-40 has a role as a solvent, but probably not as a full time lube. I had an anecdotal story that helped reinforce it wasn't a bad choice while we were there, but it looks like it might be a double variable equation.
Thanks for the tip.
5/6/2012 8:08:28 PM
As someone who live in Arizona let me tell you: Air Compressor.
5/8/2012 11:35:52 AM
Compressed air..
Also, I forget the name of it,but there is a tacky cheese cloth that Auto painters use. That stuff is a dust magnet,it's easy to manipulate and get into small tight spaces.
Also, I forget the name of it,but there is a tacky cheese cloth that Auto painters use. That stuff is a dust magnet,it's easy to manipulate and get into small tight spaces.
5/8/2012 5:35:20 PM
Compressed air
