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Dakota Safe: Good and bad detailed review
3/28/2012 10:00:55 PM
I recently purchased a Dakota safe/RSC and wanted to give some real feedback with pictures during and after assembly.
After being out of stock for some time, I learned a local safe dealer had some Dakotas in stock and figured I would pick one up. (Long long story about picking an RSC for my current needs)
I loaded all 4 boxes up in my truck with relative ease as the heaviest box is 190lbs(door) while the rest are 120lbs or so.
Two guys had no problem carrying them upstairs for assembly. Everything was well protected from bumps and bangs. Be warned, there will be packing materials everywhere.
I don't remember what size bolts they are but here are some pictures showing the spacing and layout between them. When I looked at the heads they were marked 4.8
, I didn't bother changing them since I figured the 12ga body isn't much tougher.
Everything was labeled with a number and came with an assembly DVD to clear up any confusion. It is helpful when installing the interior panels as they kinda have to be assembled in a particular order to work.
In the picture below, I am shining a flashlight through a panel which has been tightened down as far I it will go. Unfortunately light will show through in a few spots, after all, it is just bent sheet metal. I wouldn't worry too much about the expanding door seal when the other seams are not quite sealed themselves. I wonder if the 30min fire rating is calculated on a model with slight gaps like mine. I dunno, I didn't buy it hoping it would survive full blown fire.
I did have issues getting the safe level initially due to the carpet. I forgot to take picture of the bolt holes but they are drilled a good bit oversize to allow adjustment. Adjustment = poor fit. To help level it I went ahead and cut a plywood base roughly two inches larger than the footprint of the safe.
The plywood gave the safe a more uniform footing and helped a great deal with the panel alignment. No, the safe cannot be bolted down where it is. Instead I am relying on the overall weight and size of the safe to prevent movement. It weighs 527lbs and is 26" at its thinnest. The door opening to the small closet is less than 24", actually closer to 23 when the surround is measured.
After being out of stock for some time, I learned a local safe dealer had some Dakotas in stock and figured I would pick one up. (Long long story about picking an RSC for my current needs)
I loaded all 4 boxes up in my truck with relative ease as the heaviest box is 190lbs(door) while the rest are 120lbs or so.
Two guys had no problem carrying them upstairs for assembly. Everything was well protected from bumps and bangs. Be warned, there will be packing materials everywhere.
I don't remember what size bolts they are but here are some pictures showing the spacing and layout between them. When I looked at the heads they were marked 4.8
, I didn't bother changing them since I figured the 12ga body isn't much tougher.
Everything was labeled with a number and came with an assembly DVD to clear up any confusion. It is helpful when installing the interior panels as they kinda have to be assembled in a particular order to work.
In the picture below, I am shining a flashlight through a panel which has been tightened down as far I it will go. Unfortunately light will show through in a few spots, after all, it is just bent sheet metal. I wouldn't worry too much about the expanding door seal when the other seams are not quite sealed themselves. I wonder if the 30min fire rating is calculated on a model with slight gaps like mine. I dunno, I didn't buy it hoping it would survive full blown fire.
I did have issues getting the safe level initially due to the carpet. I forgot to take picture of the bolt holes but they are drilled a good bit oversize to allow adjustment. Adjustment = poor fit. To help level it I went ahead and cut a plywood base roughly two inches larger than the footprint of the safe.
The plywood gave the safe a more uniform footing and helped a great deal with the panel alignment. No, the safe cannot be bolted down where it is. Instead I am relying on the overall weight and size of the safe to prevent movement. It weighs 527lbs and is 26" at its thinnest. The door opening to the small closet is less than 24", actually closer to 23 when the surround is measured.
3/28/2012 10:01:08 PM
Reserved
Not much to say about the interior pieces. They fit together well and stay in place nicely. They are for the most part just sheetrock with carpet glued over them. The one thing I did like about the slotted rails for the shelves was how they were attached to the drywall. They put plastic drywall anchors on the back side and put screws into them through the metal strips. I know it doesn't sound like much but I looked at some liberty safes and was surprised to see long staples holding a wavy metal strip for the shelves. I was not impressed
Back:
Front:
Bunch of interior pics and 10/22 for reference.
Added pistol rack. It clears the G26 by about an inch and a half.
Security features
The hinge side of the door has a piece of angle iron to help if the hinges are cut off.
The bolts leave much to be desired. The bolts can be wiggled around pretty good and have a pretty weak looking anti-pry design. By wiggle I mean the whole angle iron assembly which the bolts are attached to. Probably why there are plastic sleeves to guide each bolt out of the door.
Final thoughts:
I purchased the safe knowing a good bit about what I was getting into. I have no illusions of preventing anything other than a smash and grab type scenario. I can't bolt it down, but it is in a small closet with a door opening smaller than the smallest dimension of the safe, +1 for the modular design. The 30 minute fire rating is nice but I really wouldn't get caught up in it. (The zanotti safe has no insulation and is rated for 20 minutes) My stuff in insured against loss, so ill deal with that if it ever happens. When I am am able to purchase a home I will be dropping some cash on a more substantial safe (Looking at a loaded Sturdy) but, for now I will work with what I have.
Not much to say about the interior pieces. They fit together well and stay in place nicely. They are for the most part just sheetrock with carpet glued over them. The one thing I did like about the slotted rails for the shelves was how they were attached to the drywall. They put plastic drywall anchors on the back side and put screws into them through the metal strips. I know it doesn't sound like much but I looked at some liberty safes and was surprised to see long staples holding a wavy metal strip for the shelves. I was not impressed
Back:
Front:
Bunch of interior pics and 10/22 for reference.
Added pistol rack. It clears the G26 by about an inch and a half.
Security features
The hinge side of the door has a piece of angle iron to help if the hinges are cut off.
The bolts leave much to be desired. The bolts can be wiggled around pretty good and have a pretty weak looking anti-pry design. By wiggle I mean the whole angle iron assembly which the bolts are attached to. Probably why there are plastic sleeves to guide each bolt out of the door.
Final thoughts:
I purchased the safe knowing a good bit about what I was getting into. I have no illusions of preventing anything other than a smash and grab type scenario. I can't bolt it down, but it is in a small closet with a door opening smaller than the smallest dimension of the safe, +1 for the modular design. The 30 minute fire rating is nice but I really wouldn't get caught up in it. (The zanotti safe has no insulation and is rated for 20 minutes) My stuff in insured against loss, so ill deal with that if it ever happens. When I am am able to purchase a home I will be dropping some cash on a more substantial safe (Looking at a loaded Sturdy) but, for now I will work with what I have.
3/29/2012 12:47:54 AM
How much?
Wish I had those available when I bought my safe. After moving a couple of times, being able to break it down into smaller pieces would have been better for me.
Wish I had those available when I bought my safe. After moving a couple of times, being able to break it down into smaller pieces would have been better for me.
3/29/2012 8:23:11 AM
Originally Posted By KalihiJack:
How much?
Wish I had those available when I bought my safe. After moving a couple of times, being able to break it down into smaller pieces would have been better for me.
How much?
Wish I had those available when I bought my safe. After moving a couple of times, being able to break it down into smaller pieces would have been better for me.
They were closer to $850 not too long ago but now the same one is not almost 1k. Expensive but, in the same range as the other modular safes.
3/29/2012 5:42:49 PM
I'm on their waiting list. Its 1100 delivered to your curb. If you can pick it up locally its 800 plus tax.
They shoudl have some more in about a month according to them.
To the OP,
Thank you for the detailed review. Yours is the first I found with all these pictures. It does look prety jankey/made in china compared to the zanottis, but you can't beat the price point. I was thinking really hard about a snap safe (which has better fire protection) but those weigh less and is smaller by a good amount. ALthough I I have a primary safe, I was going to buy this for an overflow/secondary safe to also hold important stuff such as personal documents, jewelry, etc in the upstairs bedroom since I couldn't move the main safe upstairs.
Did yours come with the S&G lock or is it the electronic one? I know the elelectronic used to be standard but now its dial only fomr what I'v e been told (electric upgrade is an extra 120)
They shoudl have some more in about a month according to them.
To the OP,
Thank you for the detailed review. Yours is the first I found with all these pictures. It does look prety jankey/made in china compared to the zanottis, but you can't beat the price point. I was thinking really hard about a snap safe (which has better fire protection) but those weigh less and is smaller by a good amount. ALthough I I have a primary safe, I was going to buy this for an overflow/secondary safe to also hold important stuff such as personal documents, jewelry, etc in the upstairs bedroom since I couldn't move the main safe upstairs.
Did yours come with the S&G lock or is it the electronic one? I know the elelectronic used to be standard but now its dial only fomr what I'v e been told (electric upgrade is an extra 120)
3/29/2012 7:44:49 PM
Originally Posted By JsbsMarine:
I'm on their waiting list. Its 1100 delivered to your curb. If you can pick it up locally its 800 plus tax.
They shoudl have some more in about a month according to them.
To the OP,
Thank you for the detailed review. Yours is the first I found with all these pictures. It does look prety jankey/made in china compared to the zanottis, but you can't beat the price point. I was thinking really hard about a snap safe (which has better fire protection) but those weigh less and is smaller by a good amount. ALthough I I have a primary safe, I was going to buy this for an overflow/secondary safe to also hold important stuff such as personal documents, jewelry, etc in the upstairs bedroom since I couldn't move the main safe upstairs.
Did yours come with the S&G lock or is it the electronic one? I know the elelectronic used to be standard but now its dial only fomr what I'v e been told (electric upgrade is an extra 120)
I'm on their waiting list. Its 1100 delivered to your curb. If you can pick it up locally its 800 plus tax.
They shoudl have some more in about a month according to them.
To the OP,
Thank you for the detailed review. Yours is the first I found with all these pictures. It does look prety jankey/made in china compared to the zanottis, but you can't beat the price point. I was thinking really hard about a snap safe (which has better fire protection) but those weigh less and is smaller by a good amount. ALthough I I have a primary safe, I was going to buy this for an overflow/secondary safe to also hold important stuff such as personal documents, jewelry, etc in the upstairs bedroom since I couldn't move the main safe upstairs.
Did yours come with the S&G lock or is it the electronic one? I know the elelectronic used to be standard but now its dial only fomr what I'v e been told (electric upgrade is an extra 120)
Mine came with the dial lock. The dealer said the pictures showing the safe with an electronic lock are outdated. They come with the dial lock standard. I am glad you can make use of the pictures.
3/29/2012 8:04:03 PM
I like my Dakota. I especially like the way the door doesn't have a big gap around it like most safes you see. I think it would be pretty tough to pry the door on a Dakota.
