Can the FAL barrel be cut easily?
If I bought a 21" gun, could I cut the barrel to 16" without having to mess with the gas port.
The adjustable gas system leads me to believe i could, but just wanna know for sure.
Chances are that you'll have to open up the port. More times than none, the port needs opened up when cutting it back to para length.
In theory, cutting a barrel is much like cutting a metal pipe. With a hacksaw and keeping the barrel held down and it will not take too long.
Personally, you should reconsider cutting the barrel no shorter then 18". If you want a carbine, there are better rifles better suited for the job. It may look tacticool but that will be all and you may..just may experience problems but that is for another topic. If you just want it to thump away with it at the range, more power to you.
By the way, are you looking at cutting a new DSA barrel or a kit barrel? Many would tell you to leave a military barrel alone and just swap out a barrel that is already short. If it is a new barrel, then cut it.
I had mine cut down to 18". While I didn't have a gas port problem, I did have to install a taller rear sight. I think it cost $65 to have it cut and threaded.
Actually, i was a machinist for quite some time, but gave it up, the physical cutting of the barrel wasn't my meaning behind the question.
I was more concerned with shortening the barrel and changing the pulse/dwell time, resulting in a nonfunctional or quirky gun. I just can't have that, since it would be somewhat intended for a bump in the night truck gun.
I asked about cutting a barrel mainly because I would prefer a chrome bore as opposed to DSA's 4150, also I though it might save a little coin for other stuff. Do I buy a 16" DSA, or cut a decent surplus barrel?
I'm also considering the DSA barrel nitrided, but I'm not too well versed on nitride yet, and only for the 922r compliance aspect of it.
How do folks open up the gas port?.....just a reamer? Is there any guide to sizes to be found anywhere? Is there a competent smith I could look to, to do the job properly?
I want 308 (the whole point), so the gun pretty much HAS to be an FAL because its about the best 16" 308 folder out there that will mount a scope nicely. Nobody makes an AR10 folder yet.
My project is simply building a 16" FAL folder, I don't have much leeway adding length to the barrel because the gun HAS to end up between 26 and 30 inches (better yet 26.5-29.5).
In all, just trying to decide what barrel I wanna get
If you cut the barrel to 16-18", most likely the gas port will need to be opened up, some need to be opened up, some don't. A function test after you cut the barrel will tell you what you need to know, most times it will short cycle. Opening the gas port is easy to do. Remove the front sight and you will see a small hole immediately to the rear of the front sight post hole in the gas block. This hole lines up with the barrel gas port. Drill to 7/64" (0.109)" and you should be good to go. Have done several para conversions this way. Put a cleaning rod or something in the barrel prior to drilling to protect the bore from damage when the drill bit breaks thru the gas port hole into the bore
Originally Posted By Head Trauma:
If you cut the barrel to 16-18", most likely the gas port will need to be opened up, some need to be opened up, some don't. A function test after you cut the barrel will tell you what you need to know, most times it will short cycle. Opening the gas port is easy to do. Remove the front sight and you will see a small hole immediately to the rear of the front sight post hole in the gas block. This hole lines up with the barrel gas port. Drill to 7/64" (0.109)" and you should be good to go. Have done several para conversions this way. Put a cleaning rod or something in the barrel prior to drilling to protect the bore from damage when the drill bit breaks thru the gas port hole into the bore
That's good info there, thanks.
Does the gas block come off easy......like on an AR.
Here's a link with some very informed responses when I asked the same question over on the falfiles.
FAL Files Link
Hope this helps. I'm cutting mine down to 16" and opening up the gas port to the posted diameter and installing a muzzle brake next chance I get.
Originally Posted By gargamel:
In theory, cutting a barrel is much like cutting a metal pipe. With a hacksaw and keeping the barrel held down and it will not take too long.
Personally, you should reconsider cutting the barrel no shorter then 18". If you want a carbine, there are better rifles better suited for the job. It may look tacticool but that will be all and you may..just may experience problems but that is for another topic. If you just want it to thump away with it at the range, more power to you.
By the way, are you looking at cutting a new DSA barrel or a kit barrel? Many would tell you to leave a military barrel alone and just swap out a barrel that is already short. If it is a new barrel, then cut it.
Ugggh. That makes my teeth hurt. I'm a toolmaker and can't imagine butchering a gun like that.
A para is 17.375". That's the min, imho. I've got one and a couple 18" guns. Very handy without losing too much velocity.
Yes, you will have to open the gas port. If you have the tools and skills to properly shorten, thread and crown a barrel, opening the gas port should be a piece of cake.
Be careful cutting a chrome lined barrel off. It's easy to chip the chrome if you crowd it. I prefer using a toolpost grinder to crown chrome lined barrels. It makes sure you have a perfect crown.
Originally Posted By a_number_1:
Actually, i was a machinist for quite some time, but gave it up, the physical cutting of the barrel wasn't my meaning behind the question.
I was more concerned with shortening the barrel and changing the pulse/dwell time, resulting in a nonfunctional or quirky gun. I just can't have that, since it would be somewhat intended for a bump in the night truck gun.
I asked about cutting a barrel mainly because I would prefer a chrome bore as opposed to DSA's 4150, also I though it might save a little coin for other stuff. Do I buy a 16" DSA, or cut a decent surplus barrel?
I'm also considering the DSA barrel nitrided, but I'm not too well versed on nitride yet, and only for the 922r compliance aspect of it.
How do folks open up the gas port?.....just a reamer? Is there any guide to sizes to be found anywhere? Is there a competent smith I could look to, to do the job properly?
I want 308 (the whole point), so the gun pretty much HAS to be an FAL because its about the best 16" 308 folder out there that will mount a scope nicely. Nobody makes an AR10 folder yet.
My project is simply building a 16" FAL folder, I don't have much leeway adding length to the barrel because the gun HAS to end up between 26 and 30 inches (better yet 26.5-29.5).
In all, just trying to decide what barrel I wanna get
.110" iirc for the hole on a 18" bbl. Yes, a reamer. Step them up along with the numbers using number reamers. The less you take out, the less chance you have of flaking the chrome. Be sure to set your stop so you don't bugger the other side of the bore.
I understand your space issue but I'm telling you there is a real difference going from 17.38 to 16 inches in a .308. I've not done a FAL 16" but I have done and M1A (long before SA had their socom). It's a thumper. Suit yourself.
I believe Sarco had some barrels. Not sure if they still do.
Ugggh. That makes my teeth hurt. I'm a toolmaker and can't imagine butchering a gun like that.
A para is 17.375". That's the min, imho. I've got one and a couple 18" guns. Very handy without losing too much velocity.
Yes, you will have to open the gas port. If you have the tools and skills to properly shorten, thread and crown a barrel, opening the gas port should be a piece of cake.
Be careful cutting a chrome lined barrel off. It's easy to chip the chrome if you crowd it. I prefer using a toolpost grinder to crown chrome lined barrels. It makes sure you have a perfect crown.
If you got the special tools, that would be best. But many seem to overthink it and assume cutting,crowning and even threading a barrel is some sacred art left to those whose gun-fu is strong. It can be done that way and I could show you how easy it is and can look real nice. It lacks sophistication but it can be done without a garage room full of epxensive tools. I just recommend that the average Joe better research, take his time, measure twice and cut once or else risk butchering it up.
You may or may not need to open the gas port if it is 18" or longer. It is a matter of trying it out first. If it is 16" more then likely.
I share your concern on cutting chromed barrel. If it is a new DSA barrel, no issue there.
Originally Posted By Ridgerunner9876:
.110" iirc for the hole on a 18" bbl. Yes, a reamer. Step them up along with the numbers using number reamers. The less you take out, the less chance you have of flaking the chrome. Be sure to set your stop so you don't bugger the other side of the bore.
I understand your space issue but I'm telling you there is a real difference going from 17.38 to 16 inches in a .308. I've not done a FAL 16" but I have done and M1A (long before SA had their socom). It's a thumper. Suit yourself.
I believe Sarco had some barrels. Not sure if they still do.
Yes, Sarco's site says they still have new, chrome lined Argentine barrels......Starting to wonder though about forgoing the barrel coatings and just going with the 16.25" DSA barrel. It's not that much more moneywise and might end up being less headache in the long run.
Good thing I have plenty of time to decide, just blew all my money on a receiver that aint even finished yet
I figured it would be a thumper, looking forward to it actually. The neighbors will love it I'm sure
I suggest you go to the fal files and read up long and hard before getting a 16", because you're getting the same vel as an AK but you're paying more for ammo and your making a huge fireball of unburnt, wasted powder.
to answer your question, you would need to open up the gas port if you cut it down. You would need to for even cutting off two inches
I've probably cut, crowned and thread over 500 FAL barrels, you will need to open the gas port .116 is best for 17.375"-18" barrels.
16" barrels usually need to be opened to .125
If you have access to a drill press or milling machine it is an easy process.
Be careful if you use a hand drill as it's easy for the bit to catch and snap off in the gasport and then you have a real PIA.
Also, you may want to read up on Argentine barrels before you cut one. Many of them have a tendency of not being concentric all the way through. Left full length they are fine as they have the same amount of metal all the way around the muzzle. Many cut down ones though are thinner on one side.
Aaron
Originally Posted By MuRDoC:
I suggest you go to the fal files and read up long and hard before getting a 16", because you're getting the same vel as an AK but you're paying more for ammo and your making a huge fireball of unburnt, wasted powder.
to answer your question, you would need to open up the gas port if you cut it down. You would need to for even cutting off two inches
I've heard this said before of .308, but it's not totally true. A 7.62x39mm round with a 154-grain bullet can be expected to get in the neighborhood of about 2,100 FPS out of a 16" barrel. A 150-grain .308 load will get about 2,625 FPS out of the same barrel length, which is a 25% improvement in velocity and about a 50% improvement in energy. It's basically half again as powerful as an equivalent AK round. Or you could compare a more standard 123-grain AK round at 2,400 FPS with the closest .308 equivalent, 110 grains. The latter reaches about 2,900 FPS out of a 16" barrel, for a 21% increase in speed and a 30% energy advantage.
Either way, .308 still provides a major advantage over 7.62x39mm, even though the round's true potential is wasted in a short barrel––especially given how light and handy it's possible to make guns designed around 7.62x39mm. Just as most people consider 14"-16" the floor length for 5.56, I'd say that 18" is about as short as you could go in .308 and still expect it to behave like a major rifle cartridge should.
Been talking with a smith in Jacksonville, Texas named Randy Kline (SLEDGEHAMMER on the FALfiles). Pretty much the man with regard to FAL smiths. I am shipping him my DSA SA58 next week for a cut to minimum length FAL (around 14.5" with 2" compensator from PWS). Should be a kick in the pants.
The PWS comp should take care of the recoil and limit some of the flash, but will do little to control the sound.....SWEET!
For those of you that are wondering about the flash and the velocity, use lighter bullets and slightly quicker powder. Where I normally use Varget in my 308, I am going to use H335 for its quicker burn rate. I am going to run 145 milsurp through it, so I should be able to get good velocity with less powder and avoid all the problems listed above. You have a build a round for the gun.
Randy is going to test if with some mil-surp ammo that works in it and set it up so that the gas port can still be adjusted for heavier or lighter rounds.
will update.
LD
I'm okay with the ballistics, noise and flash of the 16" barrel. I planned on working up a good load for the gun anyhow, shouldn't be a problem to tweak it for the barrel. Probably be fun to tweak one for the largest possible muzzle flash too. Fun with guns
Short is the whole point of the gun. I've considered going shorter than 16 and using a permahider, but wasn't sure if it would require a short gas system, or what the OAL of the folded gun would end up. A decision to be made after I get more parts gathered up and can take measurements I guess.
Is a permahider Okay on the FAL? Any real need to remove the gas block for anything?
I think I've pretty well decided to go with an already cut STG barrel unless something gets dropped in my lap. Which is a possibility since a buddy has some sort of post ban century Barrel he took off thinking he could just screw on an Israeli barrel and go. Need to find out what the old one is and if he trashed it or not. The price is right though, can't beat a free barrel.
Is there a guide to identifying barrels anywhere?
I'll be sending it off to a pro to do the work, I have access to the machines, and have the skills. I just like my barrel work done by someone with experience in that area.