 NAM
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Posted: 4/30/2012 9:26:16 AM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT Recommendations? |
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SandHillsHillbilly
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Posted: 4/30/2012 12:06:55 PM
Don't solder it. Make and splice like a Western Union splice. Make sure each wrap is right next to the previous one. No spaces between wraps. Soldering creates and rigid stress point and can break at that point. Like flexing a wire till it breaks.
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NAM
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Posted: 4/30/2012 12:18:28 PM
Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly:
Don't solder it. Make and splice like a Western Union splice. Make sure each wrap is right next to the previous one. No spaces between wraps. Soldering creates and rigid stress point and can break at that point. Like flexing a wire till it breaks. That's typically what I do, then solder. It's a long piece of wire, but if solder is not needed, I'll skip it next time. |
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SandHillsHillbilly
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Posted: 4/30/2012 12:33:56 PM
With the right splice wrap it is not needed. I don't solder my egg insulators on the end of 80 meter dipoles. Even has a non supported balun in the center. No problems since going with door springs at each support rope. They are just strong enough go keep it flat but allow the trees to sway without added tension on each end.
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phurba
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Posted: 4/30/2012 7:14:31 PM
I've soldered to it before using a propane torch to heat up the wire, then just feeding solder onto the hot wire. It will flow on its own when the wire is warm enough.
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NAM
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Posted: 4/30/2012 7:29:50 PM
Originally Posted By phurba:
I've soldered to it before using a propane torch to heat up the wire, then just feeding solder onto the hot wire. It will flow on its own when the wire is warm enough. Every time I've tried this, it did'nt work. Propane just seemed to turn it into a dirty mess (solder didn't want to stick well, even with flux). With MAPP... it just heated the wire too damn hot, too darn quick. |
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SandHillsHillbilly
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Posted: 4/30/2012 7:39:29 PM
Sounds like contamination. Did you try cleaning surface with scotchbrite or sandpaper?
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robmkivseries70
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Posted: 4/30/2012 10:14:55 PM
Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly:
Sounds like contamination. Did you try cleaning surface with scotchbrite or sandpaper? ^^^^ You may have to lightly use some emery paper on the individual strands. It should solder fine after cleaning the oxide off unless the copper is gone. 73, Rob |
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NAM
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Posted: 4/30/2012 10:17:27 PM
Originally Posted By robmkivseries70:
Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly:
Sounds like contamination. Did you try cleaning surface with scotchbrite or sandpaper? ^^^^ You may have to lightly use some emery paper on the individual strands. It should solder fine after cleaning the oxide off unless the copper is gone. 73, Rob I did use a file (no sandpaper handy) so the copperweld was bright and shiny. mind you, it has been outdoors for several years, so there may have been remnants that were not visible. Looked shiny to me. Will have to try more next time and see if that helps. |
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Posted: 4/30/2012 10:40:38 PM
I have never had much trouble soldering copper clad wire. You say it is shiny, and I wonder, does that mean it's still shiny now?
Could be varnished wire? That would be tough to solder without sanding off the varnish first. Side note - I have lived too long in a place with many wet-dry cycles to not solder outdoor bare wire connections. Unsoldered joints quickly take on the characteristics of a diode when near the beach! |
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Posted: 5/3/2012 9:11:25 AM
After lightly sanding the wire, try dipping, or brushing some isopropol alcohol on the wires, followed by a high quality resin core solder. The larger the diameter of the solder typically the more flux in the core. I quit using a propane torch a couple of years ago. Much too hard to control the heat. I went to one of those little butane torches you can get at Mill's Fleet Farm or Lowes, or Home Depot etc. Many industries use Isoprpol alcohol as a flux where residue is not wanted. It is not as agressive as acid and does not post-soldering corrode the joint or the wire.
Give it a try and report back if it doesn't work. We have more tricks up our sleeves. When sanding the Copperweld, DO NOT GO THROUGH THE COPPER PLATING! P.S. try to keep the wires under 800 degrees F. when you are soldering or oxidation will build very quickly ... more heat is not always better. |
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