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Spec-4
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Posted: 8/30/2010 10:22:10 AM
Are there 4 rivets or two rounded on both ends? I'm thinking I'll have to grind off the heads and peel off the old reciever piece if it's 4, and if it's 2 grind off one head and punch them out...your help is appreciated ladies and gentleman!
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CajunX39
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Posted: 8/30/2010 11:03:00 AM
I is two. You will have to grind off all 4 rivit heads and drill them out, I doubt you can punch them out.
huge_gator
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Posted: 8/30/2010 12:49:06 PM
2 long ones. Grind the heads and drill them out. Use a drill press if you have one as the bits like to wander when you drill them. Go all the way through the center of each and then pop them out. They are a bit of a PITA.
There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness.


"this is ARFCOM you should be gearing up for Iwo Jima" oldschool63
Spec-4
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Posted: 8/30/2010 4:58:34 PM
DAmn, I knew I should have bought a press when I had the chance...I'm going to have to try to punch them out or find somebody who will let me use their press
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huge_gator
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Posted: 8/30/2010 6:00:51 PM
You can do it with a hand drill just use small bits to start, put the trunnion in a vice and go slow and steady, You'll know if it wanders and hits the trunnion, the chips and sound are a little different.

Remember go slow and check often.
There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness.


"this is ARFCOM you should be gearing up for Iwo Jima" oldschool63
Spec-4
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Posted: 8/31/2010 1:06:04 AM
i'll give it a shot we'll see how this goes
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uscombatdiver
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Posted: 8/31/2010 10:04:52 AM
Make sure you use good sharp bits, I use nothing other than cobalt bits. Apart from the long rivets that require drilling out the rest should be a simple grinding flush and popping out with a punch. You do it right and it moves quick. Grind heads to the old receiver and peel off or receiver. Grind down to trunion and dimple a little with the Dremel cutting blade and then punch out using a punch. The trigger guard is best coming from inside the receiver. Same process, grind to the receiver and peel off receiver. Grind to the selector stop and dimple. Using a chisel shaped punch tap between trigger guard and selector stop until you can remove selector stop. Gring to trigger guard dimpling once again and then supporting on something like a vise (with the rivet head between the vise's teeth but not tightened) punch out the rivets. This process can be done in less than 15 minutes but I would go slow as not to grind something too much (we have had guys grind the selector stop to nothing). Then you can spend the time necessary drilling out the long rivets. I start out with a much smaller drill bit and drill 2/3-3/4 of the way through. I follow with two more slightly larger drill bits opening up the hole a little each time. Once I have a paper thin rivet I punch it out with great success. Unfortunately the long rivets can be challenging often times.
Spec-4
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Posted: 9/1/2010 11:35:01 AM
Sorry for the lack of an update fellas, rain kept me from working on it yesterday
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imarelic
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Posted: 9/2/2010 2:43:17 PM
To add to the excellent advise USCOMBATDIVER has give you, use plenty of lubricating oil while you're drilling out the long rivets. Stop and withdraw the drill bit "frequently", like maybe every 1/4" of depth. Turn the drill off, pick the chips out of the drill bit's flutes, flood the hole with oil again and resume. Use extra oil if you hear the bit chattering or squealing. I wouldn't waste my time trying to punch out the long rivets. The rivets are very soft and the punch just causes them to swell up and then they get even tighter. Nor could I see drilling a long hole with a hand held drill. You'll just snap off the bit in the hole, then good luck getting it out. You'll want to use a drill press with vise, that can be secured to the drill press table.
Berzerker77
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Posted: 9/2/2010 2:54:36 PM
Originally Posted By imarelic:
To add to the excellent advise USCOMBATDIVER has give you, use plenty of lubricating oil while you're drilling out the long rivets. Stop and withdraw the drill bit "frequently", like maybe every 1/4" of depth. Turn the drill off, pick the chips out of the drill bit's flutes, flood the hole with oil again and resume. Use extra oil if you hear the bit chattering or squealing. I wouldn't waste my time trying to punch out the long rivets. The rivets are very soft and the punch just causes them to swell up and then they get even tighter. Nor could I see drilling a long hole with a hand held drill. You'll just snap off the bit in the hole, then good luck getting it out. You'll want to use a drill press with vise, that can be secured to the drill press table.


Gonna have to disagree with you here sir. I use a hand drill and cobalt bits all the time. I have never broken one off. Low and slow is the key

Life is a one shot deal, don't live with regret.
Wayward_Texan
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Posted: 9/2/2010 3:44:38 PM
I ground them smooth, peeled off old receiver stub... then drilled with a hand drill.
After drilling they will collapse and be very easy to knock out with a punch.
Just take your time and you will do just fine.
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and Obama might turn out to be a good President, and skittles might fly out of my ass and turn into unicorn seeds. All are equally likely.
Spec-4
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Posted: 9/2/2010 9:34:48 PM
I must have the exception of amd-65 kits, they knocked out just fine with just a hammer and punch!

Excellent advice though guys I appreciate it, you can never know too many ways to skin a cat!!!
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AKsala
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Posted: 12/6/2010 9:43:05 PM
ok, so I bought an AMD65 folding stock. Is it legal to put on a WASR? I think yes because both are foreign stocks. hopefully I am right.

my stock came as a back half of a reciever, and I am going to grind out the riv's and punch/drill them out.

What is the proper way to install them in the recipient rifle? do I purchase two long rivs or 4 short? will I need to heat the rivets? I dont think I want to do the udrive rivets because this is a rifle I am selling.
thanks
AKsala
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Posted: 12/7/2010 12:25:03 AM
Def not punching out with hammer and punch. Even with a little heat. Gotta try the drill.
Spec-4
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Posted: 12/7/2010 2:05:26 AM
Dang...sorry to hear your luck.

Like I said, I think I got lucky with mine just punching out. It wasn't even very hard, I just asked before I tried and it ended up being 4 rivets instead of 2 and I messed something up.
When you re-install on the WASR use the 2 long rivets that come in the AK rivet packs you can buy on just about any gun supply website.

and since this thread, I finished the build check it out!
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AKsala
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Posted: 12/7/2010 3:44:35 AM
Looks bad ass. I finally got my rivets out with drilling, heat and pounding. Then i looked at my wasr and noticed that to get the rear trun. off, Ill have to drill out a rivet on the scope mount. I think that is a little too much for me to risk messing up a good gun. I think i will save this stock for if i build an ak from scratch.
Spec-4
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Posted: 12/7/2010 4:43:11 PM
Do it! It's fun and you feel good looking at it knowing it was your craftsmanship that built it!
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AKsala
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Posted: 12/7/2010 4:53:58 PM
I want to, but Im afraid of thrashing a new WASR and I am not sure what my options are for refinishing it after I grind all the rivets out. Where did you get your kit and how much was it?
AKsala
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Posted: 12/8/2010 12:54:35 AM
Originally Posted By Spec-4:
Do it! It's fun and you feel good looking at it knowing it was your craftsmanship that built it!


I hope you dont mind, but Im going to hijack your thread.


so heres where I ground the rivet down... notice I attempted to grind the one as little as possible to see if I can keep the finish


peelin it off


drilled.



this is the part where I chickened out, because the rivet below the red line goes through the damn scope mount, and I didnt want to risk ruining the scope mount getting the rivet out, because then I would have to take the scope mount off etc... but now Im thinking about taking the wood stock out, and drilling/cutting along the red line. then I only have to drill out the other rivet and remove the rear trunion and install the amd 65... after I notch the receiver and drill a hole for the push button, etc.

Think it will work?
AKsala
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Posted: 12/8/2010 1:07:58 AM
Also, what do I need to know about driving the rear rivets? do they fit in very tight, or do they slip in, then you hammer each side into a round head? or do you have to drive them in? do you have to get them hot? what size do I order? where do I get them?

thanks