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kalash74
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Posted: 5/28/2011 12:00:14 AM
[Last Edit: 5/28/2011 12:01:32 AM by kalash74]
I just got my dogleg rail. I finally got the front end of the rail installed after several hours of trying to compress the rear sight leaf spring. It was as stiff as hell. I finally ended up using a C-clamp and applying pressure to the top of the dogleg to get the pin in. There's no way this thing is coming out now that it's in without using a punch.

The problem I'm having now is that the TWS recoil spring button doesn't seat all the way back to the rear of the groove in the trunnion. It goes in about 3/8" and then stops. As you can see from the pics, the issue seems to be that the ledge on the TWS button is significantly thicker than the stock Saiga/SGL button, hence it doesn't fit into the groove. The result is that the top cover doesn't really catch on the button. As you can see from the pic, the button doesn't stick out out at all from the top cover.

Has anyone else had this problem, and if so how did they resolve it? I could mess around with trying to file down the ledge to make it thinner, but I'd rather not.






drifter_r6
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Posted: 5/28/2011 1:31:04 AM
Have you tried pulling back on the charging handle a few times?
kalash74
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Posted: 5/28/2011 11:47:41 AM
Originally Posted By drifter_r6:
Have you tried pulling back on the charging handle a few times?


Yes, I have charged it a few times, but I'm afraid to force it in. It would then be stuck and difficult to remove. It seems like it should slide in easily like the stock button. Is there a reason why it should be so tight? Is it not supposed to seat all the way back?
acr1
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Posted: 5/28/2011 4:45:27 PM
I would use a piece of sand paper on a flat surface to slowly remove a bit of metal from the bottom of the button until it will slide to the rear of your trunion. Go slowly and check it often to get the best fit.
gimlet
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Posted: 5/28/2011 9:49:39 PM
I filed mine which worked,maybe 25 strokes with a file.Mine fits all the way to the rear of the trunion with the cover off.However when I put the cover down I don't think it's all the way to the rear.
The way the angle on the button that holds the cover down won't allow the button all the way to the rear of the trunion.
kalash74
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Posted: 5/29/2011 5:22:27 PM
Originally Posted By gimlet:
I filed mine which worked,maybe 25 strokes with a file.Mine fits all the way to the rear of the trunion with the cover off.However when I put the cover down I don't think it's all the way to the rear.
The way the angle on the button that holds the cover down won't allow the button all the way to the rear of the trunion.


Did you remove material from the bottom of the button or the top of the "ledge" that sits in the trunnion groove? Seems like removing material from the bottom might affect how high the button sights and where it lines up with the hole in the top cover.

By the way, when you close the top cover, do you just slam it home?
Suburban
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Posted: 5/29/2011 8:14:35 PM
[Last Edit: 5/29/2011 8:45:43 PM by Suburban]
My Gen. II mount came in last week from Dallas Shooter's Supply. . . finally. I ordered a few days after Christmas.

Put about 50 rounds through the Interarms Tantal that that I put it on, yesterday, getting a rough zero at 12 paces, and goofing around a little bit . Today, I took it out and put 5 30-round mags through the Tantal and tweaked a 25 yard zero. At the very end of the range session, the bolt carrier kind of hung up at the rear. Gave the charging handle a little tap, and it slammed home. Kind of odd, but I was out of ammo, and I didn't think too much of it.

Came back home and flipped up the cover to find the "spacer" laying in behind the trigger. After a good bit of shaking, I got half of the spacer pin to fall out. I guess the other half fell out of the rifle at some point. Oh well. I didn't really want the spacer in there anyway. I'll take the buffer out of the WASR, and slide it over the Tantal guide rod, rather than Dremel it. There some finish worn off the guide rod, and a little bit of peening, and the upper tips of the spacer scraped away some of the anodizing on the inside of the cover. Otherwise, there doesn't seem to be any real harm done.

I'll have a review and pictures to post eventually
amrev360
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Posted: 5/29/2011 10:22:20 PM
My Gen. II mount came in last week from Dallas Shooter's Supply. . . finally. I ordered a few days after Christmas.

Put about 50 rounds through the Interarms Tantal that that I put it on, yesterday, getting a rough zero at 12 paces, and goofing around a little bit . Today, I took it out and put 5 30-round mags through the Tantal and tweaked a 25 yard zero. At the very end of the range session, the bolt carrier kind of hung up at the rear. Gave the charging handle a little tap, and it slammed home. Kind of odd, but I was out of ammo, and I didn't think too much of it.

Came back home and flipped up the cover to find the "spacer" laying in behind the trigger. After a good bit of shaking, I got half of the spacer pin to fall out. I guess the other half fell out of the rifle at some point. Oh well. I didn't really want the spacer in there anyway. I'll take the buffer out of the WASR, and slide it over the Tantal guide rod, rather than Dremel it. There some finish worn off the guide rod, and a little bit of peening, and the upper tips of the spacer scraped away some of the anodizing on the inside of the cover. Otherwise, there doesn't seem to be any real harm done.

I'll have a review and pictures to post eventually


A mechanical engineering friend of mine predicted that the metal spacers would micro-fracture and could split. Does something like that seem to be the case? He said the rubber ones should be fine since they deform and absorb the energy with the deformation.
gimlet
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Posted: 5/30/2011 12:08:18 AM
Originally Posted By kalash74:
Originally Posted By gimlet:
I filed mine which worked,maybe 25 strokes with a file.Mine fits all the way to the rear of the trunion with the cover off.However when I put the cover down I don't think it's all the way to the rear.
The way the angle on the button that holds the cover down won't allow the button all the way to the rear of the trunion.


Did you remove material from the bottom of the button or the top of the "ledge" that sits in the trunnion groove? Seems like removing material from the bottom might affect how high the button sights and where it lines up with the hole in the top cover.

By the way, when you close the top cover, do you just slam it home?



I filed the bottom,I could hardly notice the amount of metal removed before it slid into the trunion freely.
Do I slam the cover? The answer for me is no, I don't slam it like the old cover.
How I would describe what I do is an authoritative downward push, hope it helps.

Suburban
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Posted: 5/30/2011 12:55:18 PM
Originally Posted By amrev360:

A mechanical engineering friend of mine predicted that the metal spacers would micro-fracture and could split. Does something like that seem to be the case? He said the rubber ones should be fine since they deform and absorb the energy with the deformation.


It's plausible. On mine, it was the pin that broke, but the spacer took a bit of a beating too, although, it's hard to tell what damage came after the pin broke, and what was there before it broke. This is from a couple days, a couple hundred rounds, though a 5.45mm rifle. With a rifle of a different nationality, a different builder, a different caliber, I really don't know.
Krazy8
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Posted: 5/30/2011 6:16:51 PM
Does this work on milled recievers? I'm looking to put it on a SLR-95. If this has been answered before I'm sorry for asking again.
FiremanFrank
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Posted: 5/30/2011 10:04:26 PM
I have one of these on my SLR-95. You need to let TWS know that you need the front half of the recoil spring assembly as the SLR-95 spring assembly is different.

Krazy8
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Posted: 5/31/2011 12:51:23 AM
Originally Posted By FiremanFrank:
I have one of these on my SLR-95. You need to let TWS know that you need the front half of the recoil spring assembly as the SLR-95 spring assembly is different.


Thanks for posting a picture too. I think it looks great and I was going to do almost exactly what you did with yours. Thx for the heads up.
meh_cps
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Posted: 5/31/2011 3:45:48 AM
Frank,

Can you elaborate a bit on your comment. I've got one of these on order for my SLR-95 and would like to know what SLR specific things I'll need to do for the install.

Thanks,
Mike
fuzzy03cls
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Posted: 5/31/2011 11:09:00 AM
So what's the wait time for this? Been 4.5 weeks for me so far. I was told 4 weeks direct from TWS.
acr1
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Posted: 5/31/2011 5:45:49 PM
Originally Posted By gimlet:
I filed mine which worked,maybe 25 strokes with a file.Mine fits all the way to the rear of the trunion with the cover off.However when I put the cover down I don't think it's all the way to the rear.
The way the angle on the button that holds the cover down won't allow the button all the way to the rear of the trunion.


You don't want the button all the way to the rear. It needs some movement left to keep the cover tight and to allow for wear.


Did you remove material from the bottom of the button or the top of the "ledge" that sits in the trunnion groove? Seems like removing material from the bottom might affect how high the button sights and where it lines up with the hole in the top cover.

By the way, when you close the top cover, do you just slam it home?


You want the cover to be pulled down as much as possible to keep it tight against the rear trunion. You won't remove enough metal to tell the difference really, but it is best to keep it as tight as possible.
FiremanFrank
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Posted: 5/31/2011 6:10:12 PM
[Last Edit: 5/31/2011 6:16:34 PM by FiremanFrank]
On the SLR-95 you will need to have TWS send you (mine and the other guys were all sent free) the front half of the recoil assembly. Picture the traditional AK recoil spring and assembly which is a pair of wires that the spring is held in place by. On the Bulgarian SLR-95 the recoil assembly is different although the spring is the same. It is very easy to switch over the spring from the old assembly to the new one that you get from TWS. Just tell him you will need it for the Bulgarian SLR-95 with the milled receiver and he will send the correct one for your application.
If need be I can take some pictures tomorrow when I get off shift and post them to show you the difference.

Below is what the traditional AK spring assembly looks like.



Then here is the link to the Bulgarian AK recoil spring assembly. I was unable to copy the image.

http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16462&cat=310&page=1
ramennoodles
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Posted: 5/31/2011 7:27:12 PM
[Last Edit: 5/31/2011 7:31:23 PM by ramennoodles]
my button also wouldn't go into the truniun. I filed a little off the bottom and it went in fine. Xssights has a low profile adjustable rail sight that I think might work with these.


xs rear sight, anybody think it'll work?

Mavros
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Posted: 5/31/2011 9:33:24 PM
I've been following this thread for quite some time now. This is my first time posting just to let some of you know that Jabtac has 4 of these in stock right now. They had 5 until I got lucky and got one . Anyway, just wanted to give the people who have been waiting so long a heads up.

Cheers
kalash74
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Posted: 5/31/2011 10:46:50 PM
[Last Edit: 5/31/2011 10:48:00 PM by kalash74]
Originally Posted By gimlet:
Originally Posted By kalash74:
Originally Posted By gimlet:
I filed mine which worked,maybe 25 strokes with a file.Mine fits all the way to the rear of the trunion with the cover off.However when I put the cover down I don't think it's all the way to the rear.
The way the angle on the button that holds the cover down won't allow the button all the way to the rear of the trunion.


Did you remove material from the bottom of the button or the top of the "ledge" that sits in the trunnion groove? Seems like removing material from the bottom might affect how high the button sights and where it lines up with the hole in the top cover.

By the way, when you close the top cover, do you just slam it home?



I filed the bottom,I could hardly notice the amount of metal removed before it slid into the trunion freely.
Do I slam the cover? The answer for me is no, I don't slam it like the old cover.
How I would describe what I do is an authoritative downward push, hope it helps.



Update: I just did the same thing and it fits just fine. I used sandpaper––it's easy to remove too much. Now I just have to get a red dot mounted and get to the range!
quest84
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Posted: 6/7/2011 9:49:19 AM
Anybody have these in stock right now?
AZ3GUNNER
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Posted: 6/9/2011 12:48:18 AM
I wish I knew others were selling these (and might have them in stock) besides TWS before I placed my order. It's been a little over 5 weeks.
Vexed
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Posted: 6/10/2011 12:21:42 AM
[Last Edit: 6/10/2011 10:32:20 PM by Vexed]
I am about to pull the trigger on one of these for my SLR 95. What parts of the recoil spring system is needed to make this mount work? Any links to a source would be awesome too

**ETA can I switch the recoil spring setup for my SAR 1 into my SLR 95?***
gargamel
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Posted: 6/10/2011 6:33:52 PM
I got my rail a few months back and I see this new spacer in the recoil assembly. Do I need it? what gives.
amrev360
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Posted: 6/10/2011 8:07:24 PM
I got my rail a few months back and I see this new spacer in the recoil assembly. Do I need it? what gives.


See past few pages that discusses it. The spacer was made for those with Saiga's. You can dremel it off and replace with a blackjack. I think there's a way to dremel it so you don't need a blackjack as well.
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